CSST Gas Pipe

CSST gas pipe present. Lightning strikes may cause CSST gas pipe to fail as this type of pipe attracts lightning like a lightning rod. Manufacturers settled a class action lawsuit without admitting anything in 2004. Recommend buyer have gas pipe further evaluated by either a licensed electrician familiar with CSST and its installation requirements or by the city building code inspector. I would advise the client to familiarize themselves with CSST gas pipe.

Home Inspection Services

Asbestos Cement (Mineral Fiber) Siding

ASBESTOS CEMENT (MINERAL FIBER) SIDING
Asbestos cement siding is essentially a light concrete panel reinforced with asbestos fibers. It was a common siding material in the mid 1900s.


Asbestos cement siding typically comes in large shingles. Sometimes the surface is grooved or mildly corrugated. They are usually painted white or pastel colors. This siding is almost always installed horizontally, with consecutively higher rows overlapping the row below. Be careful when identifying this material. There are other materials very similar in appearance to the asbestos cement shingle.

Asbestos cement is a good siding material that, in many areas, has unfairly developed a bad reputation because of its asbestos content. There is no evidence that there is any health issue associated with this siding while on a building. Asbestos fibers can be a health issue if they are friable. This means that fibers are free to float around in the air and may be inhaled by people.
With asbestos cement siding, the asbestos is not free or friable. People sanding or cutting asbestos cement shingles should consider this, but other than during construction activities, this shouldn’t be an issue.


The siding is extremely durable and its only arguable weakness is that because it is brittle, it is susceptible to mechanical damage. However, most other sidings are also susceptible to mechanical damage, and one has to hit an asbestos cement shingle pretty hard to break it
Another advantage to the asbestos cement siding is that it is tolerant of moisture, and while the substrate may be vulnerable if it is installed too close to grade, the asbestos cement siding itself will not deteriorate even if buried in the ground.


Another benefit of the asbestos cement siding is its non-combustibility and, to a lesser extent, its fire resistance. As most people are aware, asbestos is used as insulation against heat in many applications. However, since asbestos cement siding is typically secured with steel nails, there is a limit to the fire resistance.


Matching replacement pieces for damaged shingles may be hard to find.
Home Inspection Services

Federal Pacific Electric Panels

** Safety Warning*** Federal Pacific Electric service panel

This panel is a latent fire hazard: it's circuit breakers may fail to trip in response to an over current or a short circuit. Failure of a circuit breaker to trip can result in a fire, property damage, or personal injury. A circuit breaker that may not trip does not afford the protection that is intended and required. Simply replacing the circuit breakers is not a reliable repair. While the panel may appear in acceptable condition at this limited cursory inspection, a licensed electrician who is familiar with this equipment should be called to inspect the panel for immediate fire and shock hazards, and regardless of its visually-apparent condition, the buyer should consider having this equipment replaced. Additional information about the fire and shock hazards associated with this equipment can be read on the internet at http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm.

Asbestos Cement (Mineral Fiber) Siding

ASBESTOS CEMENT (MINERAL FIBER) SIDING
Asbestos cement siding is essentially a light concrete panel reinforced with asbestos fibers. It was a common siding material in the mid 1900s.

Asbestos cement siding typically comes in large shingles. Sometimes the surface is grooved or mildly corrugated. They are usually painted white or pastel colors. This siding is almost always installed horizontally, with consecutively higher rows overlapping the row below. Be careful when identifying this material. There are other materials very similar in appearance to the asbestos cement shingle.

Asbestos cement is a good siding material that, in many areas, has unfairly developed a bad reputation because of its asbestos content. There is no evidence that there is any health issue associated with this siding while on a building. Asbestos fibers can be a health issue if they are friable. This means that fibers are free to float around in the air and may be inhaled by people.
With asbestos cement siding, the asbestos is not free or friable. People sanding or cutting asbestos cement shingles should consider this, but other than during construction activities, this shouldn’t be an issue.

The siding is extremely durable and its only arguable weakness is that because it is brittle, it is susceptible to mechanical damage. However, most other sidings are also susceptible to mechanical damage, and one has to hit an asbestos cement shingle pretty hard to break it
Another advantage to the asbestos cement siding is that it is tolerant of moisture, and while the substrate may be vulnerable if it is installed too close to grade, the asbestos cement siding itself will not deteriorate even if buried in the ground.

Another benefit of the asbestos cement siding is its non-combustibility and, to a lesser extent, its fire resistance. As most people are aware, asbestos is used as insulation against heat in many applications. However, since asbestos cement siding is typically secured with steel nails, there is a limit to the fire resistance.

Matching replacement pieces for damaged shingles may be hard to find.

Shrinkage Cracks in Concrete

NOTICE: Our blog and articles have moved to Home Repair/Safety Articles

ARTICLE EXCERPT:

Newly-placed concrete develops tensile stresses as differences in temperature and moisture content develop in the drying concrete. These stresses are relieved by cracking. A number of factors can influence the development of such stresses.

Control of Crack Locations:
Control joints are sometimes installed in an attempt to determine the areas at which concrete will crack. Control joints are grooves . . .

This article was moved to:

• Shrinking Cracks in Concrete

Article from: Tulsa Home Inspector, Charles Cravens

Safe Rooms

A safe room, also known as a panic room, is a fortified room that is installed in a private residence or business to provide a safe hiding place for inhabitants in the event of an emergency.

Safe Rooms Around the World

In Mexico, where kidnappings are relatively common, some people use safe rooms as an alternative (or a supplement) to bodyguards.

In Israel, bullet- and fire-resistant security rooms have been mandated for all new construction since 1992.

Since the 1980s, every U.S. embassy has had a safe room with bullet-resistant glass.
Perhaps the largest safe room will belong to the Sultan of Brunei. The planned 100,000-square foot room will be installed beneath his 1,788-room, 2,152,782-square foot residence.

Why are safe rooms used? Reasons include:

• to hide from burglars. The protection of a safe room will afford residents extra time to contact police;
• to hide from would-be kidnappers. Many professional athletes, actors and politicians install safe rooms in their houses;
• protection against natural disasters, such as tornadoes and hurricanes. Underground tornado bunkers are common in certain tornado-prone regions of the United States;
• protection against a nuclear attack. While safe rooms near the blast may be incinerated, those far away may be shielded from radioactive fallout. This type of safe room, known as a fallout shelter, was more common during the Cold War than it is today;
• to provide social distancing in the event of a serious disease outbreak; and
• fear of an abusive spouse.

Safe rooms can be traced back as far as the Middle Ages. Castles had a "castle keep," a room located in the deepest part of the castle, which was designed so the feudal lord could hide during a siege. In the United States, safe rooms were used in the Underground Railroad during the 1800s, where secret rooms hid escaping slaves. In the 1920s, hidden rooms stored Prohibition-banned liquor. Safe rooms designed for weather protection have their origins in storm cellars. The features of the modern safe room are mostly derived from fallout shelters during the 1950s, which were created in response to the fear of nuclear attacks.

Various events of the past decade have spurred a rise in the popularity of safe rooms, including New Year's Eve during “Y2K," the terrorist attacks in New York City in 2001, and the subsequent anthrax poisonings that led to fears of civil unrest and war. Yet, it was the 2002 film Panic Room, starring Jodie Foster, that heightened public awareness of safe rooms and their perceived need. In fact, the term "panic room" became the popular name for what were previously known as "safe rooms" as a result of the movie, although companies that create the rooms still prefer to call them "safe rooms."

Today, they have become a status symbol in wealthy areas such as Bel Air and Manhattan, where it is believed there are thousands of such rooms. However, it is difficult to estimate the number of safe rooms because many homeowners will not publicize the existence of their safe rooms. Even real estate agents tend to hide the location of safe rooms, or even the fact that a house contains one, until they know a buyer is serious about purchasing the house.
Location
The safe room’s location must be chosen carefully. It should not be located in the basement, for instance, if intruders are likely to enter the house from that location. Ideally, occupants will be closer than the intruders to the safe room at the time that the intrusion has been detected. This way, the occupants will not be forced to cross paths with the intruder in order to reach the safe room, such as in a stairway. Occupants can plan multiple routes to a safe room to avoid detection by the intruder who is blocking the main route.

Design


Safe-room designs vary with budget and intended use. Even a closet can be converted into a rudimentary safe room, although it should have a solid-core door with a deadbolt lock. High-end custom models costing hundreds of thousands of dollars boast thick steel walls, video banks, computers, air-cleaning systems, bulletproof Kevlar®, and protection against bacterial and chemical infiltration.
Recommendations for specific design elements are as follows:

• doors: These are one of the most critical components of the safe room design. A bullet-resistant door with internal steel framing can weigh several hundred pounds, yet it must operate smoothly, easily, and without fail in an emergency. The hardware must be selected to provide substantial, secure locking without compromising the smooth operation of the door itself. Most importantly, it must allow the door to be secured quickly, preferably from a single control point. The hardware should not be capable of being overridden or tampered with from the outside.
• floors: Concrete is an adequate material for the floor. In other forms of floor construction, such as wood, it is important to provide supplementary protection suitable to the anticipated type of emergency. As safe room construction often uses heavy materials, it is important to ensure that the floor can support a large load.
• sound insulation: The attackers may try to verbally coerce the occupants to leave the safe room. Effective sound insulation will limit the ability for such unwanted communication. Also, sound insulation will prevent the intruders from hearing phone conversations between the occupant and police.
• walls and ceilings: Wall construction that spans from floor to ceiling is generally preferred because of the structural continuity of the framing. Bricks and blocks, while bullet-resistant, can become dislodged from repeated sledgehammer battering. Steel stud walls, braced with additional reinforcing ties, can be faced with steel sheet or bullet-resistant materials, such as Kevlar®. These, in turn, may be covered with tile, sheetrock or other decorative finishes. Steel and Kevlar® panels are available in large sheet sizes. This helps minimize the number of joints that can be potential weak points of an assembly. It is important to not overlook penetrations that may be made for light fixtures, power points or plumbing pipes. Ductwork that passes through protected walls should also be carefully considered to ensure that the security is not breached or they are not used to transfer poisonous gasses into the safe room.
• cameras and monitors: Concealed cameras located outside the room enable its occupant to secretly monitor the movement and numbers of intruders. Effective camera systems may incorporate one visible camera outside the room so that an intruder disabling the exposed camera may not think to look for hidden cameras.
• generator: A self-contained power system is standard in most higher-end safe rooms.

Items to keep in a safe room:

• bottled water and non-perishable foods: There should be a small provision of bottled water and non-perishable foods (such as dried trail mix);
• communication devices: Ideally, all three of the following devices should be stored in the safe room;
• a cell phone and charger, which are convenient, but they may not operate through thick safe room walls. The charger will not work if no electrical receptacles are installed, so those are required, too;
• a land-line phone: Since cell phones may not work in a safe room, or because they may lose power, a land-line phone is recommended. It should, however, be on a separate line from the rest of the house so that intruders are less likely to disable it;
• a two-way radio;
• blankets: Occupants might be there for a while, so they might as well be comfortable;
  first aid kit: Even if occupants make it to the safe room, they may have been injured by the intruder en route. It is unlikely that he will allow the occupants to re-enter the room after they leave it to look for band-aids;
• prescription medication: Small quantities of necessary medications should be stored in the safe room, or else occupants may be forced to surrender their position during a medical emergency. Having a hundred cans of tuna and a flat-screen TV does little good if your only asthma inhaler is left on the kitchen table;
• flashlights: Severe weather can knock out electricity to the house, or intruders may intentionally cut the power;
• sanitation supplies: Safe rooms built on a budget often don't have a toilet. A bucket can be used as a low-cost alternative;
  weapons: If the intruders manage to enter the safe room, occupants should be prepared to defend themselves. Pepper spray is a common choice, and firearms are certainly no less effective; and
• gas masks, which may become necessary in the event that the intruders force poisonous gas into the safe room. Where an odorless gas might be used, an electronic device may be installed to detect any noxious fumes or poisons.

In summary, safe rooms are increasingly popular rooms designed to protect occupants from various types of emergencies.

Tree Hazards

Although trees are generally a desirable feature of home landscaping, they can pose a threat to buildings in a number of different ways. Inspectors may want to educate themselves about tree dangers so that they can inform their clients about potentially dangerous situations.

Tree Roots and Foundations

Tree roots cannot normally pierce through a building's foundation. They can, however, damage a foundation in the following ways:

• Roots can sometimes penetrate a building's foundation through pre-existing cracks.
• Large root systems that extend beneath a house can cause foundation uplift.
• Roots can leech water from the soil beneath foundations, causing the structures to settle and sink unevenly.

Other Dangers:

• Trees that are too close to buildings may be fire hazards. Soffit vents provide easy access for flames to enter a house.
• Leaves and broken branches can clog gutters, potentially causing ice dams or water penetration into the building.
• Old, damaged or otherwise weak trees may fall and endanger lives and property. Large, weak branches, too, are a hazard, especially if weighed down by ice.
• Tree roots can potentially penetrate underground drainage pipes, especially when they leak. Water that leaks from a drainage or sanitary pipe can encourage root growth in the direction of the leak, where the roots may eventually enter the pipe and obstruct its flow.
• Trees may be used by insects and rodents to gain access to the building.
• Falling trees and branches can topple power lines and communication lines.

Structural Defects in Trees .

Trees with structural defects likely to cause failure to all or part of a tree can damage nearby buildings. The following are indications that a tree has a structural defect:

• dead twigs, dead branches, or small, off-color leaves;
• species-specific defects. Some species of maple, ash and pear often form weak branch unions, while some other fast-growing species of maple, aspen, ailanthus and willow are weak-wooded and prone to breakage at a relatively young age;
• cankers, which are localized areas on branches or stems of a tree where the bark is sunken or missing. Cankers are caused by wounding or disease. The presence of a canker increases the chance that the stem will break near the canker. A tree with a canker that encompasses more than half of the tree's circumference may be hazardous even if the exposed wood appears healthy;
• Hollowed trunks;
• Advanced decay (wood that is soft, punky or crumbly, or a cavity where the wood is missing) can create a serious hazard. Evidence of fungal activity, such as mushrooms, conks and brackets growing on root flares, stems or branches are indications of advanced decay. A tree usually decays from the inside out, eventually forming a cavity, but sound wood is also added to the outside of the tree as it grows. Trees with sound outer wood shells may be relatively safe, but this depends on the ratio of sound-to-decayed wood, and other defects that might be present;
• cracks, which are deep splits through the bark, extending into the wood of the tree. Cracks are very dangerous because they indicate that the tree is presently failing;
• V-shaped forks. Elm, oak, maple, yellow poplar and willow are especially prone to breakage at weak forks;
• The tree leans at more than 15 degrees from vertical. Generally, trees bent to this degree should be removed if they pose a danger. Trees that have grown in a leaning orientation are not as hazardous as trees that were originally straight but subsequently developed a lean due to wind or root damage. Large trees that have tipped in intense winds seldom recover. The general growth-form of the tree and any uplifted soil on the side of the tree opposite the lean provide clues as to when the lean developed.
• Binoculars are helpful for examining the higher portions of tall trees for damage.
• When planting trees, they should be kept far from the house. It is impossible for the homeowner to reliably predict how far the roots will spread, and trees that are too close to a building may be a fire hazard.
• Do not damage roots. In addition to providing nutrition for the tree, roots anchor the tree to the ground. Trees with damaged roots are more likely to lean and topple than trees with healthy roots. Vehicles are capable of damaging a tree's root system.
• Dead trees within the range of a house should be removed. If they are not removed, the small twigs will fall first, followed by the larger branches, and eventually the trunk. This process can take several years.

Inspect your trees periodically for hazards, especially in large, old trees. Every tree likely to have a problem should be inspected from bottom to top. Look for signs of decay and continue up the trunk toward the crown, noting anything that might indicate a potential hazard.
In summary, trees that are too close to buildings can potentially cause structural damage.

Soils & Settlement

Soil is a naturally-occurring mixture of mineral and organic ingredients with a definite form, structure, and composition. It’s composed primarily of minerals which are produced from parent material which is broken into small pieces by weathering. Larger pieces are stones, gravel, and other rock debris. Smaller particles are sand, silt, or clay. Since the original materials vary from place to place, the exact composition of soil varies according to location. A common example of soil composition by volume might be:

• 45% Minerals (clay, silt, sand, gravel, stones).
• 25% Water (the amount varies depending upon precipitation and the water-holding capacity of the soil).
• 25% Air (an essential ingredient for living organisms).
• 5% Organic matter or humus (both living and dead organisms).

Mineral particles give soil texture. Sand particles range in diameter from 2 mm to 0.05 mm, feel gritty and can be easily seen with the unaided eye. Silt particles are between 0.05 mm and 0.002 mm and feel like flour. Clay particles are smaller than 0.002 mm and cannot be seen with the unaided eye. Because of the small particle size, clay soils can sometimes experience large amounts of expansion and contraction in volume with changes in moisture content.

Water and air occupy the pore spaces—the area between soil particles. The final ingredient of a soil is organic matter. Organic matter consists of dead plant and animal material and the billions of living organisms that inhabit soil.

The concern with soil in respect to building is the ability of soil to bear the load of the structure while remaining stable. Ensuring long-term stability requires proper compaction and consolidation of soil before a permanent load is placed upon it. Examples of a permanent load would be foundation footings and walls or a concrete floor or driveway slab.

The excavation process disturbs soil, loosening it and causing spaces between soil particles to become much larger. For this reason, engineering specifications often require that foundations be placed on undisturbed soil.
In areas at which a home is built partially or completely on fill, such as homes built on hillsides, that fill must be made as solid as possible before a permanent load is placed on it. This is done by mechanical compaction of the soil. Soil is placed in layers (called “lifts”). Each layer is mechanically compacted by impact and sometimes by vibration.
When larger areas such as a hillside lot are compacted, heavy equipment is used. For smaller areas like backfill around basement foundation walls, a jumping jack tamper is used which is operated by one person.
Compaction is the process of forcing air from the spaces between soil particles. Compaction with a jumping jack tamper is somewhat inexact. In determining the point at which soil is adequately compacted, the operator listens to the tone of the tamper impacting the soil. When soil is adequately compacted, the tone will have a ringing quality which will not change. A change in tone indicates that compaction is still taking place.
Compaction increases the density of the soil and improves its ability to bear a load. Compaction is affected by a number of factors:

• Soil type (clay, sand, silt, level of organic matter, etc.)
• Soil characteristics (uniformity, gradient, plasticity, etc.)
• Soil thickness
• Method of compaction
• Moisture content at the time of compaction.

Consolidation is the process of forcing water from the spaces between soil particles. Soil is more permeable to air than to water. This means that the compaction process may remove from the soil a large percentage of air, but a significant percentage of water may remain.
Soil undergoes both primary and secondary consolidation.Primary consolidation is short-term and takes place during the mechanical compacting process. Secondary consolidation is long-term and takes place after the compaction process is complete and the permanent loads are in place.
During secondary consolidation, the weight placed on soil slowly forces water out of the spaces between soil particles. As this happens, soil particles will move close together and settling will occur. The source of the weight would be both the structure and the overlying soil.
The amount of secondary consolidation which can be expected increases with the depth of the affected area. An excavation with backfill 15 feet deep would experience more secondary consolidation than an excavation with backfill 8 feet deep.
A common scenario is when a structure is built partially on undisturbed soil and partially on compacted fill. Soil in these two areas will consolidate at different rates as the weight of the newly-built structure forces water from between soil particles. This is called “differential settlement”.
Settling will be reflected in any part of structure bearing upon the settled soil. In adequately-compacted soil, settling will be so minor that evidence won’t be visible. Extreme differential settlement will create stresses which are relieved by cracking.
Which materials crack depends on the properties of the material and the rate of settling. More brittle materials will crack first. The effects of soil movement are most often seen as cracks in interior and exterior wall coverings like drywall and plaster and in masonry foundation walls.

Even concrete, which most people think of as brittle, can bend if pressure is applied slowly over a long time period. If pressure is applied over a shorter time period, concrete will crack.
Compaction and consolidation are affected by the composition of the soil. Fine-grained soils have more interior surfac e area and can hold more air and water than course-grained soils. Here's an example. Drywall is made of much courser particles than cement. An ounce of drywall dust contains about 5,000 square feet of interior surface area. An ounce of cement dust contains about 50,000 square feet of interior surface area.
This means that fine-grained soils like clays have more interior surface area which can contain water. In order to force water out of the spaces between particles, surface tension must be overcome. "Surface tension" is the tendency of water to cling to a surface. When you fill a glass with water, it's surface tension that makes the water level slightly higher around the edges where water comes into contact with the glass surface. Water is clinging to the glass.
The greater interior surface area of fine-grained soils results in greater surface tension. Fine-grained are also typically low-permeability soils, meaning that water moves through them slowly. These conditions increase the amount of time and pressure required for soil to consolidate. Soils will continue to consolidate until the resistance to pressure of the materials of which the soil is composed reach equilibrium with pressure from the weight of soil and structure above.
The rate of consolidation is affected by the soil composition, levels of moisture saturation, the amount and nature of the load on the soil and state of consolidation of the soil.
Another moisture-related problem is the addition of excessive moisture to the soil. This can create a condition in which water is absorbed into spaces between soil particles. Soil becomes less dense, which reduces its ability to support a load.

Geothermal Heating & Cooling Systems

Geothermal systems are home heating and cooling systems that gather heat from the earth. Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) use the relatively constant temperature of sub-surface soil as the exchange medium.

Geographical Distribution

• As of 2004, five countries -- El Salvador, Kenya, the Philippines, Iceland and Costa Rica -- generate more than 15% of their electricity from geothermal sources. In Iceland, geothermal energy is so cheap that some sections of pavement are heated.
• In the United States, roughly 50,000 geothermal heat pumps are installed every year. The U.S. leads the world in geothermal exploitation.
• The combined production of geothermal energy for all uses places third among renewable energy sources, following hydroelectricity and biomass, and ahead of solar and wind.

Where does geothermal energy come from?

Beneath the Earth's crust, there is a layer of hot, molten rock called magma. Heat is continually produced there, mostly from the decay of naturally radioactive materials, such as uranium and potassium. The amount of heat within the first 33,000 feet (or 10,000 meters) of the Earth's surface contains 50,000 times more energy than all the oil and natural gas resources in the world combined.

Benefits of Geothermal Energy:

• Energy efficiency. GHPs require 25% to 50% less electricity than conventional heating and cooling systems. According to the EPA, geothermal heat pumps can reduce energy consumption — and corresponding emissions — up to 44%, compared to air-source heat pumps, and up to 72%, compared to electric resistance heating with standard air-conditioning equipment.
• Design flexibility. Geothermal heat pump systems can be installed in both new and retrofit construction. Equipment rooms can be scaled down in size because the hardware requires less space than is needed by conventional HVAC systems. GHP systems also provide excellent "zone" space conditioning, which allows different parts of a home to be heated or cooled to different temperatures.
• Durability. Since GHP systems have relatively few moving parts and the parts are sheltered inside a building, the systems are durable and reliable. The underground piping often carries warranties of 25 to 50 years, and the heat pumps can last more than 20 years. The components are easily accessible, which helps ensure that the required maintenance is performed on a timely basis.
• Noise reduction. As they have no outside condensing units (such as those in air conditioners), there's no noise outside the home. Geothermal heat pumps are so quiet inside of a house that users may not be aware they are operating.

How do geothermal systems work?
A geothermal heat pump, unlike a furnace, does not create heat by burning fuel. Instead, it collects the earth's natural heat through a series of pipes, called a loop, installed below the frost line. At that depth, which varies by climate zone, the soil remains at a relatively constant temperature throughout the year. Fluid circulates through the loop and carries heat to the house. There, an electrically driven compressor and a heat exchanger concentrate the heat and release it inside the home at a higher temperature, where ductwork distributes the heat to different rooms. In summer, the underground loop draws excess heat from the house and allows it to be absorbed into the earth. The system cools the home in the same way that a refrigerator keeps food cool -- by drawing heat from the interior, rather than by forcing in cold air. Types of Systems
There are four basic types of geothermal systems. Selection of the most appropriate system depends on the climate, soil conditions, available land, and local installation costs at the site. All of these systems can be used for residential and commercial building applications. They include:

• Horizontal: This type of installation is generally the most cost-effective for residential installations, particularly for new construction where sufficient land is available. The most common layouts use either two pipes (one buried at 6 feet, and the other at 4 feet), or two pipes placed side-by-side buried 5 feet in the ground in a 2-foot wide trench.
• Vertical: Large commercial buildings and schools often use vertical systems because the land area required for horizontal loops is prohibitive. Vertical loops are also used where the soil is too shallow for trenching, and they minimize the disturbance to existing landscaping. For a vertical system, holes (approximately 4 inches in diameter) are drilled about 20 feet apart and 100 to 400 feet deep. Two pipes are inserted into these holes and connected at the bottom to form a loop. The vertical loops are connected to the heat pump in the building.
• Pond/lake: A supply-line pipe is run underground from the building to a body of water and coiled into circles at least 8 feet under the surface. In order for the body of water to be adequate, it must meet minimum volume, depth and quality criteria.
• Open-loop system: This type of system uses well or surface water as the heat exchange fluid that circulates directly through the GHP system. Once it has circulated through the system, the water returns to the ground through the well, a recharge well, or surface discharge. This option is practical only where there is an adequate supply of relatively clean water, which must comply with local codes and regulations regarding groundwater discharge.

CostA geothermal system usually costs about $2,500 per ton of capacity. A typical home uses a 3-ton unit costing roughly $7,500. That initial cost is nearly twice the price of a regular heat pump system that includes air conditioning. The cost of drilling, however, can be considerable; drilling can cost in excess of $30,000, depending on the terrain and other local factors. Systems that require drilling vertically deep into the ground will cost much more than systems where the loops are in a horizontal fashion and closer to the surface. Despite these initial costs, a geothermal system saves enough on utility bills that the investment is often recouped in five to ten years.

In summary, geothermal systems heat and cool homes using sub-surface soil as an exchange medium. Geothermal systems are more expensive to install than conventional furnaces, but their operating costs are significantly lower.

Moisture Intrusion

Moisture intrusion can be the cause of building defects, as well as health ailments for the building's occupants. Inspectors should have at least a basic understanding of how moisture may enter a building, and where problem areas commonly occur.

Some common moisture-related problems include:

• structural wood decay;
• high indoor humidity and resulting condensation;
• expansive soil, which may crack the foundation through changes in volume, or softened soil, which may lose its ability to support an overlying structure;
• undermined foundations;
• metal corrosion;
• ice dams; and
• mold growth.

Mold can only grow in the presence of high levels of moisture. People who suffer from the following conditions can be seriously (even fatally) harmed if exposed to elevated levels of airborne mold spores:

• asthma;
• allergies;
• lung disease; and/or
• compromised immune systems.

Note: People who do not suffer from these ailments may still be harmed by elevated levels of airborne mold spores.

How does moisture get into the house?


Moisture or water vapor moves into a house in the following ways:

• air infiltration. Air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from high-pressure areas to lower ones by the easiest path possible, such as a hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by air currents is very fast (in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute). Replacement air will infiltrate through the building envelope unless unintended air paths are carefully and permanently sealed;
• by diffusion through building material. Most building materials slow moisture diffusion, to a large degree, although they never stop it completely;
• leaks from roof;
• plumbing leaks;
• flooding, which can be caused by seepage from runoff or rising groundwater; it may be seasonal or catastrophic; and
• human activities, including bathing, cooking, dishwashing and washing clothes. Indoor plants, too, may be a significant source of high levels of humidity.

Climate Zones
In the northern U.S., moisture vapor problems are driven primarily by high indoor relative humidity levels, combined with low outdoor temperatures during the winter. In the southern U.S. (especially the southeast), the problem is largely driven by high outdoor humidity and low indoor temperatures during summer months. Mixed climates are exposed to both conditions and can experience both types of problems. Humid climates, in general, will be more of a problem than dry climates. Wind-driven rain is the main cause of leaks through the building envelope.

Check for moisture intrusion in the following areas:

Roofs
A roof leak may lead to the growth of visible mold colonies in the attic that can grow unnoticed. Roof penetrations increase the likelihood of water leaks due to failed gaskets, sealants and flashing. The number of roof penetrations may be reduced by a variety of technologies and strategies, including:

consolidation of vent stacks below the roof;

exhaust fan caps routed through walls instead of the roof;

high-efficiency combustion appliances, which can be sidewall-vented;

electrically powered HVAC equipment and hot water heaters that do not require flue; and
adequate flashing. Oftentimes, inspectors discover missing, incorrectly installed or corroded flashing pipes.

Plumbing

Distribution pipes and plumbing fixtures can be the source of large amounts of moisture intrusion. If the wall is moist and/or discolored, then moisture damage is already in progress. Most plumbing is hidden in the walls, so serious problems can begin unnoticed.

One of the most important means of moisture management in the bathroom is the exhaust fan. A non-functioning exhaust fan overloads the bathroom with damp air. If the exhaust fan doesn’t turn on automatically when the bathroom is in use, consider recommending switching the wiring or switch. The lack of an exhaust fan should be called out in the inspection report. The fan should vent into the exterior, not into the attic.

The bathroom sink, in particular, is a common source of moisture intrusion and damage. Although overflow drains can prevent the spillage of water onto the floor, they can become corroded and allow water to enter the cabinet.

Bathroom windows need to perform properly in a wide range of humidity and temperature conditions. Check to see if there are any obvious breaks in the weatherstripping and seals. Are there are stains or flaking on the painted surfaces?

Check showers and bathtubs. Is the caulking is cracked, stiff or loose in spots? Are there cracked tiles or missing grout that may channel water to vulnerable areas? If some water remains in the bathtub after draining, it may be a warning sign of possible structural weakening and settlement in the floor beneath the tub.

Utility Room

The water heater tank should be clean and rust-free.

The area around the water softener tank should be clean and dry.

Check that all through-the-wall penetrations for fuel lines, ducts, and electrical systems of heating system are well-sealed. All ducts should be clean and dust-free. Inspect the air supply registers in the house for dust accumulation.

Filters, supply lines, exterior wall penetrations, vents, ductwork and drainage of the cooling system must all be in good working order to avoid moisture problems.

Attic

Look for stains or discolorations at all roof penetrations. Chimneys, plumbing vents and skylight wells are common places where moisture may pass through the roof. Any such locations must be inspected for wetness, a musty smell and/or visible signs of mold.
Are there areas of the insulation that appear unusually thin?

Rust or corrosion around recessed lights are signs of a potential electrical hazard.

Foundations
Model building codes typically require damp-proofing of foundation walls. The damp-proofing shall be applied from the top of the footing to the finished grade. Parging of foundation walls should be damp-proofed in one of the following ways:

• bituminous coating;
• 3 pounds per square yard of acrylic modified cement;
• 1/8-inch coat of surface-bonding cement; or
• any material permitted for water-proofing.

In summary, moisture can enter a building in a number of different ways. High levels of moisture can cause building defects and health ailments.

Carbon Monoxide Questions & Answers

Consumer Product Safety Commission
Carbon Monoxide Questions and Answers
CPSC Document #466

What is carbon monoxide (CO) and how is it produced?
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a deadly, colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. It is produced by the incomplete burning of various fuels, including coal, wood, charcoal, oil, kerosene, propane, and natural gas. Products and equipment powered by internal combustion engine-powered equipment such as portable generators, cars, lawn mowers, and power washers also produce CO.
How many people are unintentionally poisoned by CO?
On average, about 170 people in the United States die every year from CO produced by non-automotive consumer products. These products include malfunctioning fuel-burning appliances such as furnaces, ranges, water heaters and room heaters; engine-powered equipment such as portable generators; fireplaces; and charcoal that is burned in homes and other enclosed areas. In 2005 alone, CPSC staff is aware of at least 94 generator-related CO poisoning deaths. Forty-seven of these deaths were known to have occurred during power outages due to severe weather, including Hurricane Katrina. Still others die from CO produced by non-consumer products, such as cars left running in attached garages. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates that several thousand people go to hospital emergency rooms every year to be treated for CO poisoning.

What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?
Because CO is odorless, colorless, and otherwise undetectable to the human senses, people may not know that they are being exposed. The initial symptoms of low to moderate CO poisoning are similar to the flu (but without the fever). They include:

• Headache
• Fatigue
• Shortness of breath
• Nausea
• Dizziness

High level CO poisoning results in progressively more severe symptoms, including:

• Mental confusion
• Vomiting
• Loss of muscular coordination
• Loss of consciousness
• Ultimately death

Symptom severity is related to both the CO level and the duration of exposure. For slowly developing residential CO problems, occupants and/or physicians can mistake mild to moderate CO poisoning symptoms for the flu, which sometimes results in tragic deaths. For rapidly developing, high level CO exposures (e.g., associated with use of generators in residential spaces), victims can rapidly become mentally confused, and can lose muscle control without having first experienced milder symptoms; they will likely die if not rescued.

How can I prevent CO poisoning?

• Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Most appliances should be installed by qualified professionals. Have the heating system professionally inspected and serviced annually to ensure proper operation. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.
• Never service fuel-burning appliances without proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owners manual when performing minor adjustments or servicing fuel-burning equipment.
• Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space such as a garage, house, or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.
• Install a CO alarm that meets the requirements of the current UL 2034 or CSA 6.19 safety standards. A CO alarm can provide some added protection, but it is no substitute for proper use and upkeep of appliances that can produce CO. Install a CO alarm in the hallway near every separate sleeping area of the home. Make sure the alarm cannot be covered up by furniture or draperies.
• Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.
• Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent.
• Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
• Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryers to heat your home.
• Never operate unvented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.
• Do not cover the bottom of natural gas or propane ovens with aluminum foil. Doing so blocks the combustion air flow through the appliance and can produce CO.

During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.

What CO level is dangerous to my health?The health effects of CO depend on the CO concentration and length of exposure, as well as each individual's health condition. CO concentration is measured in parts per million (ppm). Most people will not experience any symptoms from prolonged exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm but some heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. As CO levels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms become more noticeable and can include headache, fatigue and nausea. At sustained CO concentrations above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation, unconsciousness, and death are possible.

What should I do if I am experiencing symptoms of CO poisoning and do not have a CO alarm, or my CO alarm is not going off?
If you think you are experiencing any of the symptoms of CO poisoning, get outside to fresh air immediately. Leave the home and call your fire department to report your symptoms from a neighbor’s home. You could lose consciousness and die if you stay in the home. It is also important to contact a doctor immediately for a proper diagnosis. Tell your doctor that you suspect CO poisoning is causing your problems. Prompt medical attention is important if you are experiencing any symptoms of CO poisoning. If the doctor confirms CO poisoning, make sure a qualified service person checks the appliances for proper operation before reusing them.

Are CO alarms reliable?CO alarms always have been and still are designed to alarm before potentially life-threatening levels of CO are reached. The safety standards for CO alarms have been continually improved and currently marketed CO alarms are not as susceptible to nuisance alarms as earlier models.

How should a consumer test a CO alarm to make sure it is working?Consumers should follow the manufacturer's instructions. Using a test button tests whether the circuitry is operating correctly, not the accuracy of the sensor. Alarms have a recommended replacement age, which can be obtained from the product literature or from the manufacturer.

How should I install a CO Alarm?CO alarms should be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. CPSC recommends that one CO alarm be installed in the hallway outside the bedrooms in each separate sleeping area of the home. CO alarms may be installed into a plug-in receptacle or high on the wall. Hard wired or plug-in CO alarms should have battery backup. Avoid locations that are near heating vents or that can be covered by furniture or draperies. CPSC does not recommend installing CO alarms in kitchens or above fuel-burning appliances.

What should you do when the CO alarm sounds?Never ignore an alarming CO alarm! It is warning you of a potentially deadly hazard.
If the alarm signal sounds do not try to find the source of the CO:
a. Immediately move outside to fresh air.
b. Call your emergency services, fire department, or 911.
c. After calling 911, do a head count to check that all persons are accounted for. DO NOT reenter the premises until the emergency services responders have given you permission. You could lose consciousness and die if you go in the home.
d. If the source of the CO is determined to be a malfunctioning appliance, DO NOT operate that appliance until it has been properly serviced by trained personnel.

If authorities allow you to return to your home, and your alarm reactivates within a 24 hour period, repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 and call a qualified appliance technician to investigate for sources of CO from all fuel burning equipment and appliances, and inspect for proper operation of this equipment. If problems are identified during this inspection, have the equipment serviced immediately. Note any combustion equipment not inspected by the technician and consult the manufacturers’ instructions, or contact the manufacturers directly, for more information about CO safety and this equipment. Make sure that motor vehicles are not, and have not been, operating in an attached garage or adjacent to the residence.

What is the role of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) in preventing CO poisoning?
CPSC staff worked closely with Underwriters Laboratories (UL) to help develop the safety standard (UL 2034) for CO alarms. CPSC helps promote carbon monoxide safety by raising awareness of CO hazards and the need for correct use and regular maintenance of fuel-burning appliances. CPSC staff also works with stakeholders to develop voluntary and mandatory standards for fuel-burning appliances and conducts independent research into CO alarm performance under likely home-use conditions.

Do some cities require that CO alarms be installed?Many states and local jurisdictions now require CO alarms be installed in residences. Check with your local building code official to find out about the requirements in your location.

Should CO alarms be used in motor homes and other recreational vehicles?
CO alarms are available for boats and recreational vehicles and should be used. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association requires CO alarms in motor homes and in towable recreational vehicles that have a generator or are prepped for a generator.
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Consumers can obtain this publication and additional publication information from the Publications section of CPSC's web site or by sending your publication request to info@cpsc.gov.
This document is in the public domain. It may be reproduced without change in part or whole by an individual or organization without permission. If it is reproduced, however, the Commission would appreciate knowing how it is used. Write the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Office of Information and Public Affairs, 4330 East West Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814 or send an e-mail via CPSC's On-Line Form.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC's hotline at (800) 638-2772 (800) 638-2772 or CPSC's teletypewriter at (301) 595-7054 (301) 595-7054 , or visit CPSC's web site at www.cpsc.gov/talk.html. To join a CPSC email subscription list, please go to https://www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.aspx. Consumers can obtain this release and recall information at CPSC's Web site at http://www.cpsc.gov/.

Home Inspection Services

Lubricate your bathroom vent fan

Your bathroom vent fan stays cooler and quieter if you keep it well oiled.


OverviewDust, lint and other airborne particles can build up on your bathroom vent fan’s moving parts — making it run hotter and louder. Regular maintenance keeps your fan in great shape for years to come.

Steps

1. Turn off the power to the circuit for the fan. Remove the fan’s cover by pinching the springs or releasing the screws that hold it in place on the housing. If paint holds the edges of the cover to the ceiling, run a utility knife around the edge of the housing to break the paint seal.
2. Remove the motor. In most fans, a metal bracket connects the motor to the fan’s housing, so remove the screws that connect the bracket to the housing. Some fans are connected to a metal plate that you release by squeezing a tab or removing a screw. While removing the motor, support the fan with one hand to keep it from dropping suddenly.
3. Disconnect the power supply to your fan. If it’s plugged into a socket, unplug it. If wires connect your fan through the ceiling, unscrew the wire nuts holding the wires together and separate the wires. Pay special attention to the way the fan’s wires are connected so you can easily reconnect them when you reinstall the fan — you might want to snap a picture with your digital camera.
4. Clean the fan thoroughly. Brush off any loose dust and grime with a small paintbrush; if it’s extremely dirty, use a vacuum cleaner.
5. Next, remove the fan’s blade and wash it with soapy water. Wipe the motor’s exterior with a damp rag and cleaning solution, and vacuum the dust from the fan’s housing in the ceiling.
6. Oil the fan. Find the point where the shaft holds the motor and wipe away any dust or grime. Put a few drops of number 30 oil on both ends of the shaft where it sticks out of the motor. Then turn the shaft a few times with your hand and wipe up any excess oil running down the shaft.
7. Put the blade back on the shaft and make sure it spins easily.
8. Dry the fan and reconnect it to the housing and power supply. Test the blade with your fingers by spinning it to make sure it’s not rubbing anything. Adjust as necessary.
9. Put the ceiling cover back in place, turn the circuit on and test your fan. Your fan should be quieter and cleaner.

Tips & warnings

• Work on your fan during daylight hours so you have plenty of natural light.
• If the motor shaft seems loose or wobbles when you spin it, your fan may have worn bearings and need repairs.

Home Inspection Services

Between approximately 1965 and 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes substituted for copper branch-circuit wiring in residential electrical systems due to the sudden escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, inherent weaknesses were discovered in the metal that lead to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. Neglected connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures containing aluminum wiring become increasingly dangerous over time. Poor connections cause wiring to overheat, creating a potential fire hazard. In addition, the presence of single-strand aluminum wiring may void a home’s insurance policies. Inspectors may instruct their clients to talk with their insurance agents about whether the presence of aluminum wiring in their home is a problem that requires changes to their policy language.

Roof

What do you mean it's not insurable - my home inspector said the roof was OK!"

Ever heard this before? Or said it? How in the world can one person's opinion of a roof be completely at odds with another? Well, it's less complicated than you might think.
It's the same roof, but we see different things.

And we're looking at different things, as well. The basic issue is that home inspectors and insurance companies are concerned with different aspects of a roof.

Your home inspector is looking at the installation practices, age and condition of the roof material, flashings, vents, chimneys, skylights, etc. In other words, your inspector is describing and reporting the condition of the roof and its components at the time of the inspection.

On the other hand, your insurance adjuster is looking for damage to the roof surface, evidence of failure of the roof covering, and remaining expected lifespan of the roof covering, among other things. In other words, your insurance adjuster is evaluating the risk that the roof represents for the near and intermediate future.

So, what does that mean to me?
As an example, lets look at a typical roof in our area. Lets say that this roof has two layers of 3-tab shingles over plywood decking, and the upper layer is 10 years old. The shingles are weathered but intact and there are no indications of leakage - in other words, this roof is in normal working order.

A home inspector might rate this roof satisfactory or acceptable because the roof is still doing its job of keeping water out of the house. The inspector might mention the relative likelihood of near term repair or replacement, but there would be no reason to call the roof defective.

An insurance company might decline coverage for this roof based on its age and multiple layers. It is likely that this roof could require replacement within 5 or 6 years. Since both layers will have to be stripped at that time, adding significantly to the cost of re-roofing, this roof might fall outside of the insurance company's underwriting guidelines.

It's important to remember that the scenario illustrated above is just that, a scenario. Because every roof is different, you should always get your initial opinion from a trusted professional, whether in the inspection or insurance industry. And remember, there's nothing wrong with getting a second opinion.