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Zinsco Electric Panels

** Safety Warning*** A Zinsco TM or SylvaniaTM-Zinsco electrical panel

Serious electrical hazards may be present in the electrical panel which could result in overheating, fire, or inability to turn off the electrical power in the home. While the panel may appear in acceptable condition at this limited cursory inspection, a licensed electrician who is familiar with this equipment should be called to inspect the panel for immediate fire and shock hazards, and regardless of its visually-apparent condition, the buyer should consider having this equipment replaced. Significant expense may be involved. Additional information about this hazards is available at an independent building failures research website: www.inspect-ny.com/electric/Zinsco.htm

Repairing Bathtub Drains

Antitip Brackets

Anti-Tip Brackets for Freestanding Ranges

Anti-tip brackets are metal devices designed to prevent freestanding ranges from tipping. They are normally attached to a rear leg of the range or screwed into the wall behind the range, and are included in all installation kits. A unit that is not equipped with these devices may tip over if enough weight is applied to its open door, such as that from a large Thanksgiving turkey, or even a small child. A falling range can crush, scald, or burn anyone caught beneath.

Bracket Inspection
It may be possible to see a wall-mounted bracket by looking over the rear of the range. Floor-mounted brackets are often hidden, although in some models with removable drawers, such as 30" electric ranges made by General Electric, the drawers can be removed and a flashlight can be used to search for the bracket.

You may can firmly grip the upper-rear section of the range and tip the unit. If equipped with an anti-tip bracket, the unit will not tip more than several inches before coming to a halt. The range should be turned off, and all items should be removed from the stovetop before this action can be performed. It is usually easier to detect a bracket by tipping the range than through a visual search. This test can be performed on all models and it can confirm the functionality of a bracket.
If no anti-tip bracket is detected, inspectors should recommend that one be installed.

You may can contact the dealer or builder who installed their range and request that they install a bracket. For clients who wish to install a bracket themselves, the part can be purchased at most hardware stores or ordered from a manufacturer. General Electric will send their customers an anti-tip bracket for free.

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), there were 143 incidents caused by range tip-overs from 1980 to 2006. Of the 33 incidents that resulted in death, most of those victims were children. A small child may stand on an open range door in order to see what is cooking on the stovetop and accidentally cause the entire unit to fall on top of him, along with whatever hot items may have been cooking on the stovetop. The elderly, too, may be injured while using the range for support while cleaning. InterNACHI inspectors who inspect ovens should never leave the oven door open while he oven is unattended.

In response to this danger, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) created standards in 1991 that require all ranges manufactured after that year to be capable of remaining stable while supporting 250 pounds of weight on their open doors. Manufacturers' instructions, too, require that anti-tip brackets provided be installed. Despite these warnings, retailer Sears estimated in 1999 that a mere 5% of the gas and electric units they sold were ever equipped with anti-tip brackets. As a result of Sears’ failure to comply with safety regulations, they were sued and subsequently required to secure ranges in nearly 4 million homes, a measure that has been speculated to have cost Sears as much as $500 million.

In summary, ranges are susceptible to tipping if they are not equipped with anti-tip brackets. Inspectors should know how to confirm that these safety devices are present.

Home Winterization

Winterization is the process of preparing a home for the harsh conditions of winter. It is usually performed in the fall before snow and excessive cold have arrived. Winterization protects against damage due to bursting water pipes, and from heat loss due to openings in the building envelope.

Plumbing System
Water damage caused by bursting pipes during cold weather can be devastating. A ruptured pipe will release water and not stop until someone shuts off the water. If no one is home to do this, an enormous quantity of water can flood a house and cause thousands of dollars' worth of damage. Even during very small ruptures or ruptures that are stopped quickly, water leakage can result in mold and property damage. Broken water pipes can be costly to repair.
All exposed water pipes in cold areas, such as attics, garages, and crawlspaces, should be insulated. Foam or fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most hardware stores. Insulation should cover the entirety of a pipe.

Plastic is more tolerant of cold expansion than copper or steel. Houses in colder climates might benefit from the exclusive use of approved plastic plumbing.
Water supply for exterior pipes should be shut off from inside the house and then drained.
Sprinkler systems are particularly vulnerable to cracking due to cold-weather expansion. In addition to turning them, it helps to purge the system of any remaining water with compressed air.

Homeowners should be aware that much of the plumbing system travels through areas that are significantly colder than the rest of the house. Because it is impossible to monitor the temperature of every portion of the plumbing system, indoor air temperature should be kept high enough throughout the winter to keep pipes in any unheated places from freezing.
Leaks in the Building Envelope

Leaky window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets can allow warm air to escape into the outdoors.

Windows that leak will allow cold air into the home. Feeling for drafts with a hand or watching for horizontal smoke from an incense stick are a few easy ways to inspect for leaks. They can be repaired with tape or caulk.

On a breezy day, a homeowner can walk through the house and find far more leaks than they knew existed. Leaks are most likely in areas where a seam exists between two or more building materials.

Insulation
Because hot air rises into the attic, a disproportionately larger amount of heat is lost there than in other parts of the house. Like a winter hat that keeps a head warm, adequate attic insulation will prevent warm indoor air from escaping. Attic insulation should be 12 inches thick in cold climates.

Storm doors and windows should be installed to insulate the house and protect against bad weather.

• 
  Heating Systems
  The heating system is used most during the winter so it’s a good idea to make sure that it works before it’s desperately needed. The following inspection and maintenance tips can be of some help to homeowners:
• Test the furnace by raising the temperature on the thermostat. If it does not respond to the adjustment quickly it might be broken.
• Replace the air filter if it’s dirty.
• If the furnace is equipped with an oil or propane tank, the tank should be full.

Cooling Systems

• Use a hose to remove leaves and other debris from the outdoor condensing unit, if the home is equipped with one.
• Protect the unit with a breathable waterproof cover to prevent rusting and freezing of its components.

Remove and store window air conditioners when they are no longer needed. Cold air can damage their components and enter the house through openings between the air conditioner and the windowpane.

Ceiling fans can be reversed in order to warm air trapped beneath the ceiling to recirculate. A fan has been reversed if it spins clockwise.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

• The chimney should be inspected for nesting animals trying to escape the cold. Squirrels and raccoons have been known to enter chimneys for this reason.
• The damper should open and close with ease. Smoke should rise up the chimney when the damper is open. If it doesn't, this means that there is an obstruction in the chimney that must be cleared before the fireplace can be used.
• A chimney-cleaning service professional should clean the chimney if it has not been cleaned for several years.
• The damper should be closed when the fireplace is not in use. An open damper might not be as obvious to the homeowner as an open window, but it can allow a significant amount of warm air to escape.
• Glass doors can be installed in fireplaces and wood stoves to provide an extra layer of insulation.
  Roofs

If debris is left in gutters, it can get wet and freeze, permitting the formation of ice dams that prevent water from draining. This added weight has the potential to cause damage to gutters. Also, trapped water in the gutter can enter the house and lead to the growth of mold. For these reasons, leaves, pine needles, and all other debris must be cleared from gutters. This can be done by hand or with a hose.

Missing shingles should be replaced.

Landscape

• Patio furniture should be covered.
• If there is a deck, it might need an extra coat of sealer.

Adequate winterization is especially crucial for homes that are left unoccupied during the winter. This sometimes happens when homeowners who own multiple properties leave one home vacant for months at a time while they occupy their summer homes. Foreclosed homes are sometimes left unoccupied, as well. The heat may be shut off in vacant homes in order to save money. Such homes must be winterized in order to prevent catastrophic building damage.

The following measures to prepare an unoccupied home for the winter:

• Winterize toilets by emptying them completely. Antifreeze can be poured into toilets and other plumbing fixtures.
• Winterize faucets by opening them and leaving them open.
  Water tanks and pumps need to be drained completely.
• Drain all water from indoor and outdoor plumbing.
• Unplug all non-essential electrical appliances, especially the refrigerator. If no electrical appliances are needed, electricity can be shut off at the main breaker.
  
  In summary, home winterization is a collection of preventative measures designed to protect homes against damage caused by cold temperatures. These measures should be performed in the fall, before it gets cold enough for damage to occur. Indoor plumbing is probably the most critical area to consider when preparing a home for winter, although other systems should not be ignored.
  
  

Home Service Grounding Electrodes

Electrical grounding systems divert potentially dangerous electrical currents by providing a path between a building’s service box and the earth. Lightning and static electricity are the most common sources of dangerous or damaging charges that can be dissipated through a grounding system. Grounding electrodes are connected to the building’s electrical system through grounding electrode conductors, also known as ground wires. A number of different metal alloys can function as grounding electrodes, the most common of which are the focus of this article.

Requirements for electrodes and ground wires:
Aluminum has a tendency to corrode and should not be used in ground wires unless they are insulated. Moisture and mineral salts from masonry are common causes of corrosion to uninsulated aluminum. It is also a poorer conductor than copper. Aluminum wires in grounding systems are not permitted in Canada.

Since grounding electrodes are not insulated, they can never be made of aluminum.
If more than one electrode is present, they must be connected to each other with a bonding jumper.

Common Types of Grounding Electrodes Grounding Rods

The most common form of grounding electrode is a metal rod that is hammered into the ground so that its entire length is submerged. we recommend that the rod be inserted vertically and in one piece, but this is not always possible in rocky areas. If the rod is hammered into sub-surface rocks it might become scratched and lose its cladding. Rust can accumulate on exposed iron or steel and degrade the conductive capacity of the rod. Unfortunately, this rust will rarely be visible to an inspector.

Electricians have been known to cut the rod when they have difficulty inserting its entire length beneath the ground. This practice violates code and can be a safety hazard. Inspectors should look for the following signs that indicate that a grounding rod has been shortened:
Rust at the rod’s top. Grounding rods have a corrosion-resistant coating but are usually made of steel or iron and are vulnerable to rusting at any location that the rod is cut.
Most rods have an etched label on their top. If this label is missing it is likely that the rod has been cut.

Utility companies sometimes allow ground rods to be shortened. A qualified electrician can test whether a shortened rod is an adequate grounding electrode.

If accessible, check the condition of the clamp that connects the grounding rod to the ground wire. Clamps should be made of bronze or copper and be tightly fastened. Requirements for rod length, thickness, and protective coating are addressed in the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) as follows:

1. Rod and pipe electrodes not less than 8 feet (2438 mm) in length and consisting of the following materials shall be considered as a grounding electrode:
2. Electrodes of pipe or conduit shall be not smaller than trade size ¾ (metric designator 21) and, where of iron or steel, shall have the outer surface galvanized or otherwise metal-coated for corrosion protection.
3. Electrodes of rods of iron or steel shall be at least 5/8 inch (15.9 mm) in diameter. Stainless steel rods less than 5/8 inch (15.9mm) in diameter, nonferrous rods or their equivalent shall be listed and shall be not less than 1⁄2 inch (12.7mm) in diameter.
   

Notes
Although the 2006 IRC does not mention whether the rod may be driven at an angle, the 1998 California Electrical Code allows for a maximum oblique angle of 45 degrees from the vertical.
An electrician can install two grounding rods if necessary. They should be at least 6 feet apart from one another.

This electrical grounding technique was invented during World War II in Arizona, and is commonly called “Ufer” after its creator, Herbert G. Ufer. The United States Army was concerned that lightning or static electricity could cause the accidental detonation of explosives that were stored in igloo-shaped vaults. The desert climate restricted the usefulness of grounding rods, which would have to be driven hundreds of feet into the dry earth in order to be effective. Ufer advised the military to connect ground wires into the concrete-encased steel reinforcement bars (re-bar) of the bomb vaults in order to dissipate electricity effectively into the ground. Testing confirmed his theory that the relatively high conductivity of concrete would allow electric current to dissipate into a large surface area of earth. The Ufer method is more common in newer residential construction and requires a metal frame. It might be difficult for an inspector to detect this type of electrode.

The 2006 IRC details Ufer grounds as follows:

An electrode encased by at least 2 inches (51 mm) of concrete, located within and near the bottom of a concrete foundation or footing that is in direct contact with the earth, consisting of at least 20 feet (6096 mm) of one or more bare or zinc-galvanized or three electrically conductive coated steel reinforcing bars or rods of not less than 1/2 inch (12.77 mm) diameter or consisting of at least 20 (6096 mm) feet of bare copper conductor not smaller than 4 AWG shall be considered as a grounding electrode. Reinforcing bars shall be permitted to be bonded together by the usual tie wires or other effective means.

Metal Underground Water Pipes

A building’s plumbing system can be connected to the ground wire and function as a grounding electrode. For some time, this was the only mandatory grounding electrode type and it was generally preferred over other methods. As of 1987, however, this method became the only one that must be supplemented with another type of electrode. This transition is due to the increased popularity of nonconductive dielectric unions and plastic pipes. When plumbing has been replaced with plastic pipes a notice is required to be placed at the electrical service panel that states that there is a non-metallic water service. Inspectors will not be able to tell if outdoor water pipes that run to street water mains have been replaced with plastic components.

Ground wires should be firmly attached to water pipes close to the point of entry to the building. A ground wire that is loosely tied around a pipe is inadequate.
Gas pipes should never be used as grounding conductors. They usually are made of plastic at the exterior of the home and carry flammable gases that may ignite if exposed to electrical current.
The 2006 IRC states the following about water pipe electrodes:

A metal underground water pipe that is in direct contact with the earth for 10 feet (3048 mm) or more, including any well casing effectively bonded to the pipe and that is electrically continuous by bonding around insulating joints or insulating pipe to the points of connection of the grounding electrode conductor and the bonding conductors, shall be considered as a grounding electrode. Interior metal water piping located more than 5 feet (1524 mm) from the entrance to the building shall not be used as part of the grounding electrode system or as a conductor to interconnect electrodes that are part of the grounding electrode system.

Less Common Grounding Electrodes

The previously mentioned grounding electrodes constitute the vast majority of grounding systems that inspectors will encounter. The two electrodes described below are far less common, although they are recognized by the IRC.

Plate Electrodes

A plate electrode that exposes no less than 2 square feet (0.186 m2) of surface to exterior soil shall be considered as a grounding electrode. Electrodes of iron or steel plates shall be at least 1⁄4 inch (6.4mm) in thickness. Electrodes of nonferrous metal shall be at least 0.06 inch (1.5mm) in thickness. Plate electrodes shall be installed not less than 30 inches (762 mm) below the surface of the earth.

Ground Ring Electrodes

A ground ring encircling the building or structure, in direct contact with the earth at a depth below the earth’s surface of not less than 2.5 feet, consisting of at least 20 feet of bare copper conductor not smaller than No. 2 shall be considered as a grounding electrode.

In summary, a variety of home service grounding electrodes can be used to safely route unexpected electrical charges away from places that they can cause harm. Inspectors should be aware of how they differ from one another and be prepared to spot defects.

Garbage Disposals

Garbage disposals are residential and commercial appliances designed to shred food waste so that it can fit through plumbing. They are usually electrically powered (although occasionally powered by water pressure) and are installed beneath sinks. Despite the convenience afforded by garbage disposals, the strain they can place on septic systems should be weighed against any potential benefits they might provide.

Why Use a Garbage Disposal ?

When food waste is discarded into the trash, it will place an enormous burden on waste management systems and harm the environment. Garbage disposals reduce the severity of these problems by routing food waste into septic systems or sewers instead of landfills.

The following are a few specific problems associated with food waste that can be curbed through the use of a garbage disposal:

• It must be collected and transported long distances to landfills and waste treatment facilities.

In landfills, food scraps decompose and produce methane gas, which contributes to global warming.
Note - The above points must be weighed against the added expense of treating food waste in sewer systems and transporting it from septic systems.

Garbage Disposals and Septic Systems

If a garbage disposal discharges into a septic tank, it can place significant strain on the septic system. The amount of waste that enters the tank, particularly grease and suspended solids, will increase considerably. This load increase requires that the septic tank be pumped more often than would otherwise be required. The New York Septic Code counts the presence of a garbage disposal the same as an extra room in a house when they estimate the load placed on a septic tank. The additional strain will also reduce the life span of the septic system. Septic systems can be designed to accommodate food waste but, in general, they are not.

To test a garbage disposal for leaks, turn it on and run water through it. The water load should be great enough so that any leaks will become apparent. A good way to do this is to close the drain and fill the sink with water before releasing the stopper.

• While testing a garbage disposal, never put anything other than water through it. Before turning it on, check to make sure there are no objects already in the disposal.
• Do not attempt to fix a broken garbage disposal (or any other appliance) while performing a home inspection.
• If a dishwasher is connected to the disposal, make sure that the line that connects them is securely attached.
• Check to make sure that the garbage disposal is connected to a drain that is 1.5 inches in diameter or greater.
• Check to make sure that the disposal is provided with an adequate water supply.
  If the home has a double sink, check to make sure the waste pipe from the disposal has a trap installed.

Wiring Inspection

• The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not require a garbage disposal to have GFCI protection. GFCI protection for this appliance is optional.
• The vibration caused by the operation of a garbage disposal can cause electrical connections to separate.
• Check for any loose connections in the wire compartment box at the base of the disposal.
  Garbage disposals should be either hardwired or connected to an outlet through a grounded electrical outlet.
• A dedicated circuit is generally recommended, although a circuit that is shared with a dishwasher is sometimes appropriate. The best authority on this distinction is the disposal’s user manual.

Maintenance and Operation Suggestions :

• Put only small quantities of food into the disposal at a time. Large food scraps should be cut into smaller pieces before entering the disposal.
• Never put anything down the disposal that is not food or water. Bottle caps, aluminum foil, and other non-food items can damage the disposal or get stuck in piping.
• Run water while using the disposal, and for approximately 30 seconds after you turn it off. Food scraps will flow through the piping more easily if they are pushed along by water. Cold water is better than warm water for this purpose because it will force fats and grease to congeal and harden, allowing them to move more easily through pipes. Warm water can be run through the disposal while it is not in operation.
• Ice can be used to clear off solidified grease and other debris from the blades in a garbage disposal.
• The garbage disposal should only be used to grind non-fibrous, leftover food. If in doubt as to whether something can be put in the disposal, err on the side of caution and put it in the trash instead.

The following items should never be put in a disposal:

• items that are hard enough to dull the blades, such as shells from shellfish or bones;
  food that is highly fibrous, such as cornhusks, artichokes, pineapples, potato peels, asparagus, or celery should enter a disposal only in small quantities or avoided entirely.
• These foods take a long time to grind and can clog the disposal or the plumbing.
  grease or household oils; or chemicals.
  

In summary, garbage disposals have the potential to limit the amount of household trash that must be taken away to waste management facilities. They can also place additional strain on septic systems and, for this reason, they should be used infrequently. Inspectors can test disposals for leaks and proper wiring, but they should beware not to do anything that might cause them to break.

Garage Doors and Openers

Garage doors are large, spring-supported doors. Garage door openers control the opening and closing of garage doors, either through a wall-mounted switch or a radio transmitter. Due to the strain that garage door components and openers regularly endure, they may become defective over time and need to be fixed or replaced. Defective components may create safety hazards as well as functional deficiencies to the garage door assembly.

The following facts demonstrate the dangers posed by garage doors:

• Garage doors are typically among the heaviest moving objects in the home and are held under high tension.
• Injuries caused by garage doors account for approximately 20,000 emergency room visits annually, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission.
• The majority of the injuries caused by garage doors are the result of pinched fingers, although severe injuries and deaths due to entrapment occur as well. Sixty children have been killed since 1982 as a result of garage doors that did not automatically reverse upon contact.

The following components should be present during inspections and devoid of defects:

• manual (emergency) release handle. All garage doors should be equipped with this device, which will detach the door from the door opener when activated. It is vital during emergency situations, such as when a person becomes trapped beneath the door or when a power outage cuts electricity to the door opener. Inspectors should activate the handle to make sure that it works, although they will have to reset the handle if it does not reset automatically.

In order for the handle to be accessible and obvious, it must be…

1. colored red;
2. easily distinguishable from rest of the garage opener system; and
3. no more than 6 feet above the standing surface.
   

Door panels.

• Both sides of the door should be examined for the following:
  fatigue;
• cracking and dents. Aluminum doors are especially vulnerable to denting; and
  separation of materials.

warning labels. The following four warning labels should be present on or around garage door assemblies:

• a spring warning label, attached to the spring assembly;
• a general warning label, attached to the back of the door panel;
• a warning label attached to the wall in the vicinity of the wall control button, and;
• a tension warning label, attached to garage door’s bottom bracket.
  

brackets and roller shafts.

Brackets. The garage door opener is connected to the garage door by a bracket that is essential to the function of the door opener system. Placement of the bracket where it attaches to the door is crucial to the operation of its safety features. It should attach 3 to 6 inches from the top of the door. This bracket, as well as all other brackets, should be securely attached to their surfaces.

Roller shafts. Roller shafts should be longer on the top and bottom rollers. The top rollers are the most important. Without longer shafts, if one side of the door hangs up, the door may fall out of the opening.

Door operation. The door’s operation can be tested by raising the door manually, grasping the door’s handles if it has them.

Make sure that the door:

• moves freely;
• does not open or close too quickly; and
• opens and closes without difficulty.
  

Note – Do not operate the door until you have inspected the track mounts and bracing. Doors have been known to fall on people and cars when they were operated with tracks that were not securely attached and supported.

extension spring containment cables. Older garage doors may use extension springs to counter-balance the weight of the door. These require a containment cable inside the spring to prevent broken parts from being propelled around the garage if the spring snaps. Most new garages use shaft-mounted torsion springs that do not require containment cables.

wall-mounted switch. This device must be present and positioned as high as is practical above the standing surface (at least five feet as measured from the bottom of the switch) so that children do not gain access. In addition, the button must…
be mounted in clear view of the garage door; and
be mounted away from moving parts.

Automatic reverse system. As of 1991, garage doors are required to be equipped with a mechanism that automatically reverses the door if it comes in contact with an object. It is important that the door reverses direction and opens completely, rather than merely halting. If a garage door fails this test, inspectors should note it in their reports. A dial on the garage door opener controls the amount of pressure required to trigger the door to reverse. This dial can be adjusted by a qualified garage door technician if necessary.

Methods for testing the automatic reverse system:
This safety feature can be tested by grasping the base of the garage door as it closes and applying upward resistance. Inspectors should use caution while performing this test because they may accidentally damage its components if the door does not reverse course.
Some sources recommend placing a 2x4 piece of wood on the ground beneath the door, although there have been instances where this testing method has damaged the door or door opener components.

Supplemental automatic reverse system. Garage doors manufactured in the U.S. after 1992 must be equipped with photoelectric sensors or a dooredge sensor.

Photoelectric eyes. These eyes (also known as photoelectric sensors) are located at the base of each side of the garage door and emit and detect beams of light. If this beam is broken, it will cause the door to immediately reverse direction and open. For safety reasons, photo sensors must be installed a maximum of 6 inches above the standing surface.

Door edge sensors. This device is a pressure-sensitive strip installed at the base of the garage door. If it senses pressure from an object while the door is closing, it will cause the door to reverse. Door edge sensors are not as common in garage door systems as photoelectric eyes.

Safety Advice for Clients:
Homeowners should not attempt to adjust or repair springs themselves. The springs are held under extremely high tension and can snap suddenly and forcefully, causing serious or fatal injury.

No one should stand or walk beneath a garage door while it is in motion. Adults should set an example for children and teach them about garage door safety. Children should not be permitted to operate the garage door opener push button and should be warned against touching any of the door’s moving parts.

Fingers and hands should be kept away from pulleys, hinges, springs, and the intersection points between door panels. Closing doors can very easily crush body parts that get between them.
The automatic reversal system may need to be adjusted for cold temperatures, since the flexibility of the springs are affected by temperature. This adjustment can be made from a dial on the garage door opener, which should only be changed only by a trained garage door technician.

In summary, garage doors and their openers can be hazardous if certain components are missing or defective.

Conserve Energy and Save Money

Are your energy bills too high? Is your home not as comfortable as you want it to be? Do you want to do more to protect the environment? Do you have teenagers at home giving your hot water bill a beating? Whatever your situation, this information will help you to find a solution that’s right for you. This guide is primarily aimed at homeowners who are thinking of upgrading or replacing their home’s existing heating or cooling systems. It also contains useful information for people who are having a home built for them, and for those who want to reduce their energy consumption in general.

While builders generally offer a standard heating or heating/cooling package, upgrades to more efficient equipment might be available. Familiarity with the different systems, fuel options, their comparative prices, and their operating costs will help you to review upgrade options with your builder. Remember to also ask about other energy-efficiency upgrades, which can range from extra insulation to a complete R-2000-certified home. Before being R-2000-certified, each home is evaluated and tested to ensure that a high level of energy efficiency has been designed and built into it. There are both financial and environmental benefits to conserving energy and using it wisely. To help you conserve even more, these tips will also direct you to resources that can help you reduce energy consumed for purposes beyond heating and cooling your home.

A Wise Choice

The options presented will help you to select heating and cooling systems that meet the needs of both your lifestyle and your checkbook. Besides the obvious savings for you that occur by lowering your consumption, by reducing demand for energy through conservation, or, in the case of electricity, from shifting consumption to times of lower demand, together we can lower the market price for the energy that is consumed. The advantages of investing in energy efficiency aren’t only felt within your family budget – they are realized in the cleaner environment that goes hand in hand with more efficient systems and the wise use of energy.

Before You Start

Putting an energy-efficient heating system into a drafty, poorly insulated house will reduce your energy bills. But you’ll notice a more dramatic savings and even make yourself more comfortable if you also make your entire house more energy-efficient. How? Here are some ideas:
Weatherstrip and caulk to seal air leaks. You may have to replace uncontrolled sources of air with designed sources to ensure proper ventilation.
Increase insulation levels where appropriate (such as in the attic and walls) to reduce heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.

Open drapes on south-facing windows on sunny winter days so that the sun’s energy can help heat your home, and close them in summer to help keep your home cool.
Choose energy-efficient products when replacing windows and doors.
By making your house more energy-efficient, your heating and cooling systems will work less, and you may reduce the capacity needed when you replace your systems, which means more savings for you.

Why Energy Efficiency Matters

It’s good for your budget, your comfort and our environment. Each year, you spend hundreds of dollars to heat and cool your home and to heat your hot water. By installing energy-efficient equipment, which gives you the same comfort for less energy, you can lower these costs. Furthermore, the lower you can make your energy costs now, the better off you will be should energy prices go up – and conservation reduces upward pressure on energy prices.

Whenever fuels are burned – in your home, in a generating station to produce electricity, in vehicles, and elsewhere – carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxide and sulphur dioxide are released. These emissions contribute to environmental problems, including smog, acid rain and climate change. Reducing energy use lowers the amount of these emissions and their impact on the environment. You can help by practicing energy efficiency and conservation not only in heating and cooling your home, but everywhere at home, in the workplace, and in your transportation choices. Many factors can affect your annual energy bill, such as size and location of your home, yearly variations in weather, efficiency of your furnace and other appliances, thermostat settings, number of occupants, and the local cost of energy.

Are you serious about how to go about cutting your heating and cooling costs?

Follow these steps:
Where appropriate, improve the insulation and air sealing in your home.
Use this guide to help you decide what kinds of changes to your heating and cooling systems will be right for you.
Consult with a registered heating/cooling contractor and your fuel supplier before making a final decision.
Heating Units and Controls

There are four common types of heating units:
A furnace provides heat through a forced-air distribution system.
A boiler provides heat through a hydronic distribution system. (Hydronic systems are also referred to as hot water systems.)
A space heater supplies heat directly to the room where it is located.
A heat pump extracts heat from the air, ground and water outside the house and usually delivers it through a forced-air distribution system.
Most heating systems need air for combustion. Furnaces, boilers and space heaters that burn fuels need a supply of air to be able to burn properly, and a vent to the outdoors so that combustion gases can escape from the house. Electric heaters do not need to be vented. Combustion is a two-step process: air in, and gases out.

Air In
In the past, there was usually plenty of air leaking into a house to keep the furnace, boiler or stove burning well. Modern homes, however, are better sealed and use controlled ventilation, rather than uncontrolled leakage, to provide greater comfort and energy efficiency. Vents that supply air for heating units should never be blocked. It is important to ensure that there is an adequate supply of combustion air available, even when other air exhausting equipment is in use.

Gases Out
Venting used to be done through a chimney. Today, however, many models of natural gas, oil and propane equipment can be vented by pipe directly through the wall, which greatly simplifies installation. Remember that combustion gases cannot escape from your home unless you provide air to replace them. That’s why venting problems can often be traced to air supply problems.

Controls
The indoor temperature is automatically controlled by a thermostat. Two important considerations are type and location. Central systems are normally controlled by a single thermostat. To achieve proper temperature control, the thermostat must be located in an area where it will sense the average indoor temperature. Locations exposed to localized temperature extremes (outside walls, drafts, sunlight, hot ducts or pipes, etc.) should be avoided.

Different types of thermostats are available. Basic types maintain a fixed indoor temperature. However, you can reduce your heating costs by installing a setback thermostat, which can be programmed to automatically lower the temperature when no one is home or everyone is in bed, and then warm up the house before you get home or wake up. Savings will vary, but a setback of 3º for eight hours daily could reduce your heating costs by about 5%.

Where space heaters are used, each unit will likely be individually controlled by its own thermostat – which is usually the basic type. This allows you to keep unused areas at a lower temperature than those areas you do use.





Distribution Systems

There are three types of distribution systems:
A forced-air system circulates warmed or cooled air around the house through a network of ducts. It also provides a means of distributing ventilation air.
A hot water (hydronic) system distributes heat through hot water pipes and radiators.
Space heaters, though not technically a distribution system, provide direct heat to the room in which they are located.
It is important that a distribution system is properly designed, installed and operated to ensure maximum energy efficiency and comfort levels. Try to avoid placing any part of your distribution system outside of your home’s insulation. This is sometimes done as a simple remedy to a routing problem, but there is always some heat loss through the wall of any distribution system.

Forced Air
Registers in each room can be adjusted to control the air flow. Return registers draw air from the rooms through separate ducts back to the furnace to complete the cycle of air flow through the house. Leaks in forced-air distribution systems are often ignored because they normally do not cause any obvious damage, but it is important to avoid or eliminate such leaks. Leaks will affect a distribution system’s ability to provide comfort in all areas of the house, and leaks in some parts of the system can result in significant energy loss and/or condensation-related damage, which may be hidden from sight.

Hot Water (Hydronic) Heating
These systems distribute hot water from a boiler to radiators, convectors or under-floor heating systems in each room. In older homes, large, cast-iron radiators are common. Modern systems feature smaller boilers, narrow piping and compact radiators that can be regulated to provide temperature control in each room. Under-the-floor heating systems can be built into the floors of new and existing homes.

Space Heaters
These have no central heating unit or distribution system. Instead, individual space heaters – such as a wood stove, electric baseboards, radiant heaters and heaters fueled with oil, natural gas or propane – supply heat directly to the room. For safety, all space heaters except electric ones need to be vented to the outside. An appropriately sized space heater can supply some heat to all parts of a home if the design of the home allows for natural distribution of heat from the heater location. In most cases, more than one unit is required to comply with building code requirements, but multiple units allow you to vary the temperature around the house.

Energy Sources and Equipment Options

Natural Gas
Furnaces in forced-air heating systems, boilers in hot water systems, fireplaces and space heaters can be fueled by natural gas. It is delivered to your house through an underground pipeline. (It is not available in some areas.)

Propane
Most equipment fueled by propane is similar to that fueled by natural gas. In many cases, the only differences are one or two small components that can often be changed by a registered contractor to convert a unit from one fuel to the other. Propane is delivered by truck and stored in a tank on your property.

Gas Equipment
Because of their similarities, natural gas and propane heating equipment are discussed together. The term “gas” refers to both natural gas and propane. The cost of the two fuels differs, so remember to check for cost comparisons.

There are three main types of gas furnaces:
conventional (with a seasonal efficiency range of 55% to 68%);
mid-efficiency (78% to 82%); and
high-efficiency (90% to 98%).
Gas boilers have similar ranges of seasonal efficiency.

Older Conventional Gas Furnaces and Boilers
Some older furnaces and boilers, which are no longer produced but are still in use, require a continuous liner in a masonry chimney or a metal “B”-vent chimney. The liner is needed because the combustion gases contain water vapor, which condenses on masonry and causes deterioration over time. About 35% of the heat from the fuel goes up the chimney with these models.

Mid-Efficiency Gas Furnaces and Boilers
These models remove more heat from combustion gases so that less heat escapes when the gases are exhausted, and efficiency is improved. Depending on the circumstances, they might be vented through a wall or through a chimney.

High-Efficiency (Condensing) Gas Furnaces and Boilers
These models extract so much heat from combustion gases in order to achieve their efficiency that they can be safely vented through a narrow plastic pipe that runs through the wall.
Gas-Fueled Fireplaces
Gas fireplaces are sometimes used to provide space heating, though they are often chosen for aesthetic reasons. There can be significant differences in energy efficiency from one model to another, and the effective efficiency of some types can be significantly affected by how they are used.

Oil
Oil furnaces and boilers have a burner, a heat exchanger and a blower or pump. Oil is delivered by truck and stored in a tank, which is usually located in the basement.

Older Conventional Oil Furnaces and Boilers
Older, conventional oil furnaces and boilers with a standard burner have a seasonal efficiency generally ranging from 60% to 70%. Like older, conventional gas furnaces and boilers, they are no longer manufactured. However, in an existing model that is working well, the seasonal efficiency can be improved by replacing the burner with a flame-retention unit, which is usually a more cost-effective step than replacing the entire furnace.

New Oil Furnaces and Boilers
A typical new oil furnace or boiler has a seasonal efficiency rating generally ranging from 78% to 86%. Many of these units can be vented through the wall.

Oil Stoves
There are free-standing oil space heaters with a visible flame now available. There are no efficiency standards for these products.




Electricity

Electric-resistance systems can consist of a central furnace or boiler connected to an air or hot water distribution system, radiant panels embedded in the floor or ceiling, or a baseboard space heating system. Electricity also powers heat pumps. When electric resistance heating is used in a new home, including as a back-up for an air-source heat pump, the building code requires the house to be built with higher minimum levels of insulation.

Heat Pumps
A heat pump is usually an electrically powered system that can either heat or cool by transferring heat from one place to another. During the heating season, a heat pump extracts heat from either the air, ground or water outside the house, and transfers it indoors. In the summer, the direction of the heat flow is reversed, extracting heat from indoors and transferring it outdoors, to provide air conditioning. Because they satisfy a substantial part of your heating needs by utilizing heat that's already available, rather than consuming electricity to generate all of the heat you need, heat pumps are significantly more efficient than electric-resistance heating.

There are three main types of heat pumps:
air-source heat pumps;
earth-energy systems; and
bivalent heat pumps.
Air-Source Heat Pumps
These most commonly-used heat pumps can provide all the cooling requirements of a home and most of the heating needs, but they require an auxiliary heating source during very cold weather. This can be either an electric-resistance or a fossil-fuel unit.

Earth-Energy Systems
Also known as ground-source heat pumps, these systems transfer heat from the ground, ground water or surface water and use it to provide home heating. For summer cooling, the process is reversed. If desired, earth-energy systems can be equipped to provide domestic hot water year 'round. Electric-resistance heaters may be installed to provide supplementary heating for the coldest days.They normally utilize much less electric-resistance heat and offer significantly higher efficiency than air-source heat pumps.

Wood
Some households use wood as their main fuel, but even more use it as a supplementary source of heat. Most of these households are outside large urban areas where firewood is usually less expensive than other fuels. The most common approach to wood heating today is a wood stove or high-efficiency fireplace installed in the main living area of the house. If the house is medium-sized and relatively new, this kind of equipment can provide almost all the heat needed.

If you have an existing masonry fireplace, a high-efficiency fireplace insert could be a good option. And many models offer the pleasure of a visible wood fire.

Older or larger houses may need the additional heating power offered by a wood-burning furnace. If your present heating system is a forced-air furnace that uses a more costly fuel, you might want to consider an add-on wood furnace. It is installed beside the existing furnace, and the duct work is modified so that it can be shared by both furnaces. Combination wood-oil or wood-electric furnaces are options for new or replacement systems. Stoves that burn pellets made from wood or agricultural crops, such as corn kernels, are also available. Pellets are automatically fed into the burner and the householder simply dials in the required temperature on the thermostat.

When shopping for wood-burning equipment, visit several wood heat retail stores and discuss appliance selection, location and installation with a knowledgeable salesperson. Always buy wood-burning equipment that is certified for safety. It is also preferable to buy equipment that has been certified as meeting the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) or Canadian CSA-B415 emission standards. These certified wood-burning appliances produce one-tenth of the chimney emissions, and one-third higher efficiency than earlier-built units.

Outdoor Furnace
“Outdoor” wood furnaces or boilers are also on the market. They may appear attractive because they will burn low-cost material you would not think of putting in an indoor appliance, and they can burn for long periods between refueling. However, they can be low on efficiency and high on emissions.

Solar Energy
Like wood, solar energy is a renewable resource. Solar heating does not involve the combustion of fuels, so it does not produce harmful emissions. It can be as simple as south-facing windows serving as passive solar collectors. Passive solar heating is free and should be an important consideration in the design of homes. Homes built to high levels of energy efficiency and designed to make the most use of free solar heating can save hundreds of dollars a year on energy bills.

Other Energy Sources
Residential systems are available to generate electricity from sunlight and wind. In certain situations, such as remote locations, one of these may be the most practical option. In addition, the government is establishing standardized processes and technical requirements which will require electricity distributors to allow customers with qualifying generation equipment to supplement their utility/electricity needs with power they generate themselves.

Cooling Systems (Air Conditioning)

Two types of units cool an entire house: a central air conditioner and a heat pump. If you need to cool a specific area, a window air-conditioning unit could be your most energy-conserving choice. Regardless of what type you are considering, remember that models vary in efficiency ratings,and efficiency has a direct impact on operating costs, so optimizing efficiency should be a priority. Consider buying an ENERGY STAR®-qualified model.

Central Cooling
If you decide you want to cool your entire house, you should consider which system to install – central air conditioning or a heat pump – when reviewing your home’s heating needs. An air conditioner is actually a heat pump that can only cool. Remember: Your heating decisions can affect your cooling options.

Duct Work for Central Air
Duct work is generally needed to carry cool air throughout the house in a central air-conditioning system. If you have a forced-air heating system, you can usually use the same ducts for cooling. If you do not have duct work, you can look into installing it, or consider air-conditioning technologies that have been developed for homes without ducts. These alternatives are more costly, so if you are considering them, investigate your options with your heating/cooling contractor.

Mini-Splits
Mini-splits are systems suited to homes without a central air-distribution system. No duct work is required. The system consists of two components: an outdoor condensing unit, and an indoor evaporator and fan. The indoor section can usually be mounted on any interior or exterior wall, and is much quieter than a window unit.

Window Units
Window air conditioners are effective if you need to cool a specific area of your home. They will cost less to install than a central air-conditioning system. If you don’t have duct work, they might be your most practical choice. It is important to match the capacity of the window air conditioner with the size of the area to be cooled. Window units should either be covered in winter or, better still, removed to minimize heat loss.

Other Ways to Cool Your House

The following measures will help keep your home more comfortable:
Install ceiling fans to circulate air.
If you’re planning for the long term, plant trees that lose their leaves in the fall on the east, south and west sides of your house.
Close the blinds and drapes on south- and west-facing windows during sunny summer days to reduce heat gains.
Turn off lights and appliances when they are not in use.
Install awnings for patio doors and windows that face the sun.
Open windows in the evening and at night during the summer months.
Hot Water and How to Heat It

There are several water-heating options available to you. While you are taking steps to save on home heating, don’t forget to see what you can do to lower your water heating costs. Check with your fuel supplier for more information, and consider alternatives to your current method.

Storage-Type Water Heaters
Most homes have storage-type water heaters in which water in a tank is heated by a gas or oil burner, or by electric elements. Traditional storage heaters have been improved with such features as through-the-wall venting for combustion units, and better insulation, making them less expensive to operate. Units designed to give even greater efficiency are now available.

Instantaneous Water Heaters
Instantaneous water heaters, which heat water as needed and have no storage tank, are available, but not widely. They require little space, but they usually cost more than storage-type water heaters, and more than one unit might be required to meet your needs. For electric instantaneous water heaters, upgraded wiring is often necessary.

Integrated (Combination) Hot Water Systems
Systems that combine space heating and water heating are becoming more popular. Water can be heated with a boiler or a storage-tank water heater. The hot water can be used for space heating as well as domestic hot water needs. Space heating methods include baseboard radiators, in-floor radiant heating, and forced-air heating when piped to an air handler. Some of these systems can also be used for pool and spa heating, as well as snow-melting applications. Combo systems vary widely in efficiency and must be carefully designed to give satisfactory service.

Solar Water Heaters
With solar water heaters, energy from the sun is collected by solar panels and transferred by circulating fluids to a storage tank. These heaters are typically used with an electric water heater, or one fueled by oil, natural gas or propane, which acts as a back-up for overcast days. Solar collector panels can be mounted on any unobstructed roof, wall or ground frame that faces between southeast and southwest. Solar water heaters are designed to provide between 35% and 75% of your hot water needs, with the back-up providing the balance.
Replacing Your System

Review your options, consider the pros and cons of different equipment and fuels, and compare installation and operating costs. Now, it’s time to select a contractor. Here are some tips:

Look for a Registered Contractor
Your contractor will supply and install your equipment. Proper installation is essential for the safe, efficient and economical operation of your system. Electric equipment must be installed by a licensed electrician, and all electrical work should be inspected by an InterNACHI inspector.

Get Estimates from Several Contractors
Prices can vary significantly among contractors. Ask each firm for a written estimate covering the following items:
the total cost, and a listing of all necessary work, including improvements to the existing system, and the provision of combustion air, if applicable;
a heat loss/gain analysis;
the size and seasonal efficiency of the unit, and sound ratings, if applicable;
the responsibility of the contractor or homeowner for:
obtaining permits and paying related fees;
removing and disposing of old equipment;
arranging for such work as installation of gas supply; and
arranging for necessary inspections.
a work schedule and completion date
guarantees, warranties and service contracts;
terms of payment; and
evidence of an electrician’s licence, as appropriate.
Use costs (both installed and operating), work schedule, warranties and service as the basis for your decision. Ask the contractors you are considering for references, and follow up by contacting previous customers. Ask what they think about the contractor, fuel supplier, and the system options you are considering.

Choose the Right Equipment
In order to correctly size new heating and cooling equipment, your contractor must analyze how much heat is lost from your home in winter and gained in summer. Ask for this heat loss/gain analysis in writing, including the method used to perform the calculation. This calculation should take into consideration such factors as the size of the house, its level of insulation, and the condition of windows and doors. If the heat loss and gain is significant, and you haven’t already taken steps to increase the energy efficiency of the house, now is the time to do it.

Avoid the temptation to simply choose the same size equipment that already exists in your house without doing a heat loss/gain analysis. Your home has likely been altered over the years, and the system might even have been the wrong size at the start. An oversized unit will usually operate below peak efficiency, and both oversized and undersized units can adversely affect the comfort of your home. Any installation involving combustion equipment should include steps to ensure that there will be an adequate supply of air for combustion and venting, and that other air-exhausting equipment will not cause problems.

Changing Your Water Heater

Size is an important consideration when selecting new hot water equipment. A larger family is likely to use more hot water. A “downsized” household – for example, an older couple whose children have grown up and moved into their own homes – will no longer need a water heater meant to supply the needs of four or more people. By practicing water conservation – for example, by installing energy-efficient showerheads and aerators on taps, and using cold water in your washing machine – you can substantially reduce your hot water usage.

Steps to Installing a Hot Water Tank

Contact your local fuel supplier or contractor and ask for the efficiency ratings of the models you are considering. When you have selected a unit just big enough to meet your household needs, your fuel supplier or contractor can arrange for a qualified serviceperson to install the water heater. If you have an electric hot water tank, wrap it in an insulating blanket. Make sure the blanket is certified for use on your heater and is properly installed. Insulate both the hot and cold water lines of the tank, and consider installing a heat trap. Be careful not to insulate the pipes too closely to the flue of a fossil-fueled tank. Ask your fuel supplier about any water heating cost-saving programs they offer. Some suppliers do some of the work at little or no cost to you.


Glossary of Terms
Here is a quick overview of terms used in this guide that you’ll need to know as you gather information about your home heating and cooling options.

air-source heat pump: aheating-cooling unit that transfers heat in either direction between the air outside a home and the indoors.
air supply for combustion: the air that a furnace, boiler or space heater requires to burn fuel.
aquastat: a thermostat that controls the water temperature in a boiler.
boiler: the heating unit used with a hot water (hydronic) distribution system.
central air conditioner: a unit that cools an entire house by removing heat from the inside air and releasing it outside.
controls: devices, such as a thermostat, that regulate a heating or cooling system.
conventional gas furnace or boiler: a gas-heating unit with an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) less than 70%. It exhausts through a masonry chimney (which should be lined), or metal “B"-vent.
cost-effective heating/cooling system: one that produces good value for money after all costs (purchase, installation, financing and energy charges) are considered.
distribution system: the components of a heating or cooling system that deliver warmed or cooled air, or warmed water, to the living space.
domestic hot water: hot water used for household purposes.
earth-energy system (ground source heat pump): a heat pump that transfers heat from the earth or groundwater in cold weather and transfers it to the house through an underground piping system for space heating, cooling or water heating. The process reverses in warm weather, and heat is discharged to the ground or water.
electrical resistance heating: heat produced by passing electricity through a resistor.
flame-retention head burner: a higher-efficiency burner in an oil furnace. It produces a hotter flame and operates with a lower air flow, thus reducing heat loss up the chimney.
fluorocarbon refrigerants: the fluids commonly used in refrigerating and air-conditioning equipment to create the cooling effect. These fluids can damage the environment.
forced air: a distribution system in which a fan circulates air from the heating or cooling unit to the rooms through a network of ducts.
fossil fuel: a naturally occurring carbon or hydrocarbon fuel, such as natural gas, propane and oil, formed by the decomposition of prehistoric organisms.
furnace: a heating unit that uses a forced-air distribution system.
ground-source heat pump: another term for an earth-energy system.
heat exchanger: a structure that transfers heat from one gas or liquid to another gas or liquid -- for example, the hot combustion gases in a furnace to the circulating household air or, in a boiler, to the circulating hot water.
heat-recovery ventilator (HRV): a device used in central ventilation systems to reduce the amount of heat that is lost as household air is replaced with outside air. As fresh air enters the house, it passes through a heat exchanger, heated by the warm outgoing air stream, and is pre-heated.
high-efficiency (condensing) furnace or boiler: a heating unit with an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) of 90% or more. It has a second stainless steel heat exchanger that removes additional heat from exhaust gases. Water vapor condenses as the exhaust cools. The unit vents through a narrow plastic wall pipe instead of a chimney.
hydronic system: a distribution system in which hot water is circulated through a network of pipes to radiators, wall panels or an under-floor heating system.
installed cost: the total of the purchase price and the installation costs of equipment.
instantaneous water heater: a device that heats water as required, but does not store it. The unit is usually located near the point of use.
integrated (combo) hot water system: a system that provides both space and water heating from a single heat source.
kilowatt: a unit of electrical power used to measure the heating capacity of electric equipment. One kilowatt (kW) equals 1,000 watts (W).
mid-efficiency natural gas or propane furnace or boiler: a gas-heating unit with an annual fuel-utilization efficiency (AFUE) of 78% to 82%. Some models exhaust through the basement wall.
new oil furnace: efficiencies (AFUE) range from 78% to 86%; has flue gases that may be exhausted through a chimney or a side wall vent.
R-2000: a performance standard for new homes under a voluntary government/industry program. Builders meet the standard by offering an integrated package of features designed to meet the R-2000 requirements. The package includes high insulation levels, air-tightness, heat recovery ventilation, and efficient heating/cooling systems.
retrofit: replacement of one or more components of an existing system.
seasonal efficiency: a performance rating that considers the heat (or cool) actually delivered to the living space, the total energy available in the fuel consumed, and the impact the equipment itself has on the total heating or cooling load through an entire heating or cooling season. HSPF, AFUE, SEER and EF are seasonal efficiency ratings.
SEER: seasonal energy-efficiency ratio
setback thermostat: a programmable thermostat with a built-in timer. You can adjust it to vary household temperature automatically.
space heater: a heating unit that supplies heat directly to the room where it is located, and is not connected to a distribution system.
storage-type water heater: a tank that heats and stores hot water.
ton: a measure of the cooling capacity for central air conditioners and heat pumps.

Efficiency Ratings: AFUE, COP, HSPF, SEER & EER
Take a few moments to familiarize yourself with the efficiency ratings you’ll find on various pieces of equipment.

Boilers and Furnaces
Rating to look for: AFUE

The annual fuel-utilization efficiency (AFUE) of furnaces and boilers measures their performance over a typical heating season. It takes into account things such as on-and-off cycles and heat loss through the chimney or vent, and is the most useful furnace and boiler rating available. The higher the rating, the more efficient the unit.

There is a second efficiency rating for furnaces and boilers, and it is known as steady-state efficiency. It is higher than an AFUE rating, but it’s not as helpful. It measures the equipment’s performance after it has been running a short while, and after all components have reached their normal operating temperature. The steady-state efficiency of furnaces and boilers is determined by comparing the amount of heat that’s available in the fuel to the amount that is converted into usable heat, but it does not include off-cycle losses.

Wood-Burning Appliances
Advanced equipment which is certified as meeting the EPA or CSA-B415 emissions standards normally exceeds 60% and averages 70% efficiency. Conventional wood-burning appliances, which are not certified as low-emission, average 50% efficiency, with a range of 35% to 70%. Although some wood-burning equipment is specifically certified for efficiency, most is not. Also, most wood-burning appliances are manually operated, not automatic, so the practices of the operator will affect the efficiency actually achieved.

Heat Pumps
Ratings to look for: COP, HSPF

Earth-energy systems are rated for heating efficiency by comparing them to electric-resistance heat. The measurement used is its coefficient of performance, or COP, and is determined by dividing the heat output by the energy input. Since the COP of an electric-resistance heater is 1.0 – which means that the same amount of energy that goes into it as electricity comes out as heat – any rating higher than 1.0 means that, for the same amount of electricity going in, more heat comes out. Look for a COP of 3.1 or more.

The heating-efficiency rating for an air-source heat pump is called known as its heating seasonal-performance factor (HSPF). This is determined by dividing the total heat provided during the season (in BTU) by the total energy consumed by the system (in watt-hours). The higher the rating, the more efficient the heat pump is over the entire heating season. Look for an HSPF of more than 5.9.

Air Conditioners and Air-Source Heat Pumps
Ratings to look for: SEER

A SEER rating, which stands for seasonal energy-efficiency ratio, tells you the cooling energy efficiency of air conditioners and air-source heat pumps. The rating is determined by dividing the total cooling provided during the season (in BTU) by the total energy consumed by the system (in watt-hours). The higher the rating, the more energy-efficient the unit. SEERs for new central air conditioners and air-source heat pumps currently range from 10 to 17. For room air conditioners, the range is 8 to 12.

Earth-Energy Systems
Ratings to look for: EER

If you want to know how efficiently an earth-energy system can cool, look for the letters EER, which stand for energy-efficiency ratio. EER ratings are determined by dividing the cooling output of the ground or water-source heat pump (in BTUs per hour) by the power input (in watts). Look for an EER of at least 10.5.

Hot Water Equipment

Storage-Type Hot Water Heaters
An energy factor (EF) is used to rate the energy efficiency of storage-type hot water heaters. Both on-cycle efficiency and off-cycle losses are taken into account, which makes it a seasonal rating. The higher the EF, the more efficient the unit. You can expect to find the following energy factor ranges for new storage-type water heaters:
gas: 0.56 to 0.86;
electric: 0.87 to 0.98; and
oil: 0.53 to 0.68.
A storage-type water heater added to an earth-energy system will normally have an energy factor of 2.7 to 3.1.


In summary, homeowners can reduce their energy consumption by adopting the strategies offered in this guide..

Condensation in Double-Paned Windows

Condensation is the accumulation of liquid water on relatively cold surfaces.

Almost all air contains water vapor, the gas phase of water composed of tiny water droplets. The molecules in warm air are far apart from one another and allow the containment of a relatively large quantity of water vapor. As air cools, its molecules get closer together and squeeze the tiny vapor droplets closer together as well. A critical temperature, known as dew point, exists where these water droplets will be forced so close together that they merge into visible liquid in a process called condensation.

Household air is humidified from high levels of water vapor in human and animal exhalation, plant transpiration, and fixtures such as showers and dryers. This humidity can rise significantly higher than outside air because of the insulative design of a house. Cold indoor surfaces can cool the surrounding air enough to force vapor to condense. This often happens on single-pane windows because they lack the necessary thermal insulation available to better windows. Double-pane windows have a layer of gas (usually argon or air) trapped between two panes of glass and should be insulated enough to prevent the accumulation of condensation. If this type of window appears misty or foggy, it means that its seal has failed and the window needs to be replaced.

Silica Desiccant
A desiccant is an absorptive material designed to maintain dryness within its vicinity. A common type of desiccant is silica gel, a porous plastic used to prevent spoilage in various food products. A tightly packed assortment of silica pellets is contained inside the aluminum perimeter strip of a window to dehumidify incoming household air that was not stopped by the window’s seal. If not for this substance, incoming air could condense on the glass.

Silica gel has an immense surface area, approximately 800 m²/g, which allows it to absorb water vapor for years. Eventually, the silica pellets will become saturated and will no longer be able to prevent condensation from forming. A double-paned window that appears foggy has failed and needs to be repaired or replaced.

Why Double-Paned Windows Fail - Solar (Thermal) Pumping
Although double-paned windows appear to be stable, they actually experience a daily cycle of expansion and contraction caused by “thermal pumping.” Sunlight heats the airspace between the panes and causes the gas there to heat up and pressurize. Expanding gas cannot leave the chamber between the panes and causes the glass to bulge outward during the day and contract at night to accommodate the changing pressures. This motion acts like the bellows of a forge, pumping minute amounts of air in and out of the airspace between the panes. Over time, the constant pressure fluctuations caused by thermal pumping will stress the seal and challenge its ability to prevent the flow of gas in and out of the window chamber. Incoming humid air has the potential to condense on the window surface, if it is cold enough.

Can Failed Windows be Repaired?
Inspectors should be aware that there are companies that claim to be able to repair misty windows through a process known as “defogging.”

This repair method proceeds in the following order:
A hole is drilled into the window, usually from the outside, and a cleaning solution is sprayed into the air chamber.
The solution and any other moisture are sucked out through a vacuum.
A defogger device is permanently inserted into the hole that will allow the release of moisture during thermal pumping.

Condensation appears between double-paned windows when the seal is compromised and removal of this water will not fix the seal itself. A window “repaired” in this manner, although absent of condensation, might not provide any additional insulation. This method is still fairly new and opinions about its effectiveness range widely. Regardless, “defogging” certainly allows for cosmetic improvement, which is of some value to homeowners. It also removes any potential damage caused by condensation in the form of mold or rot.

Window condensation will inevitably lead to irreversible physical window damage. This damage can appear in the following two ways:

Riverbedding – Condensed vapor between the glass panes will form droplets that run down the length of the window. Water that descends in this fashion has the tendency to follow narrow paths and carve grooves into the glass surface. These grooves are formed in a process similar to canyon formation.

Silica Haze – Once the silica gel has been saturated, it will be eroded by passing air currents and accumulate as white “snowflakes” on the window surface. It is believed that if this damage is present, the window must be replaced.

Thermal Imaging as a Detection Tool
The presence of condensation in double-paned windows means that they have failed, but the absence of condensation does not mean the window is functional. This latter fact is especially true in hot, dry environments, and when the temperature inside of a house is the same as the temperature outside. A method has recently developed that uses infrared (IR, thermal) imaging to provide a better determinant of faulty windows.


In summary, condensation in double-paned windows indicates that the window has failed and needs to be replaced. Condensation, while it can damage windows, is itself a symptom of a lack of integrity of the window’s seal. A failing seal will allow air to transfer in and out of the window even if it is firmly closed. Inspectors should be aware of this process and know when to recommend that clients’ windows be replaced.

Chinese Drywall

Amidst a wave of Chinese import scares, ranging from toxic toys to tainted pet food, reports of contaminated drywall from that country have been popping up across the American Southeast. Chinese companies use unrefined “fly ash,” a coal residue found in smokestacks in coal-fired power plants in their manufacturing process. Fly ash contains strontium sulfide, a toxic substance commonly found in fireworks. In hot and wet environments, this substance can offgas into hydrogen sulfide, carbon disulfide, and carbonyl sulfide and contaminate a home’s air supply.

The bulk of these incidents have been reported in Florida and other southern states, likely due to the high levels of heat and humidity in that region. Most of the affected homes were built during the housing boom between 2004 and 2007, especially in the wake of Hurricane Katrina when domestic building materials were in short supply. An estimated 250,000 tons of drywall were imported from China during that time period because it was cheap and plentiful. This material was used in the construction of approximately 100,000 homes in the United States, and many believe this has lead to serious health and property damage.Although not believed to be life- threatening, exposure to high levels of airborne hydrogen sulfide and other sulfur compounds from contaminated drywall can result in the following physical ailments:

1. sore throat;
2. sinus irritation;
3. coughing;
4. wheezing;
5. headache;
6. dry or burning eyes; and/or
   respiratory infections.
   

Due to this problem’s recent nature, there are currently no government or industry standards for inspecting contaminated drywall in homes. Professionals who have handled contaminated drywall in the past may know how to inspect for sulfur compounds but there are no agencies that offer certification in this form of inspection. Homeowners should beware of con artists attempting to make quick money off of this widespread scare by claiming to be licensed or certified drywall inspectors.

The following tips that inspectors can use to identify if a home’s drywall is contaminated:

• The house has a strong sulfur smell reminiscent of rotten eggs.
• Exposed copper wiring appears dark and corroded. Silver jewelry and silverware can become similarly corroded and discolored after several months of exposure.
• A manufacturer’s label on the back of the drywall can be used to link it with manufacturers that are known to have used contaminated materials. One way to look for this is to enter the attic and remove some of the insulation.
• Drywall samples can be sent to a lab to be tested for dangerous levels of sulfur. This is the best testing method but also the most expensive.

Contaminated Chinese drywall cannot be repaired. Affected homeowners are being forced to either suffer bad health and failing appliances due to wire corrosion or replace the drywall entirely, a procedure which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. This contamination further reduces home values in a real estate environment already plagued by crisis. Some insurance companies are refusing to pay for drywall replacement and many of their clients are facing financial ruin. Class-action lawsuits have been filed against homebuilders, suppliers, and importers of contaminated Chinese drywall. Some large manufacturers named in these lawsuits are Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin, Knauf Gips, and Taishan Gypsum.

The Florida Department of Health recently tested drywall from three Chinese manufacturers and a domestic sample and published their findings. They found “a distinct difference in drywall that was manufactured in the United States and those that were manufactured in China.” The Chinese samples contained traces of strontium sulfide and emitted a sulfur odor when exposed to moisture and intense heat, while the American sample did not. The U.S. Consumer Safety Commission is currently performing similar tests. Other tests performed by Lennar, a builder that used Chinese drywall in 80 Florida homes, and Knauf Plasterboard, a manufacturer of the drywall, came to different conclusions than the Florida Department of Health. Both found safe levels of sulfur compounds in the samples that they tested. There is currently no scientific proof that Chinese drywall is responsible for the allegations against it.

Regardless of its source, contamination of some sort is damaging property and health in the southern U.S. The media, who have publicized the issue, almost unanimously report that the blame lies with imported Chinese drywall that contains corrosive sulfur compounds originating from ash produced by Chinese coal-fired power plants. Homes affected by this contamination can suffer serious damage to the metal parts of appliances and piping and lead, potentially leading to considerable health issues. While no governing body has issued regulations regarding contaminated drywall, it is advisable that home inspectors be aware of the danger it poses and learn how to identify it.

Burglary Prevention

Some interesting statistics concerning break-ins in the United States:
Theft makes up more than three-quarters of all reported crime.
In 2005, law enforcement agencies reported more than 2 million burglary offenses.

According to a survey, burglars enter homes through the following locations:
81% enter through the first floor;
34% of burglars enter through the front door;
23% enter through a first-floor window;
22% enter through the back door;
9% enter through the garage;
4% enter through the basement;
4% enter through an unlocked entrance;
2% enter through a storage area; and
2% enter through anywhere on the second floor.

Some interesting statistics concerning break-ins in Canada (2002):
The burglary rate in Canada, at 877 per 100,000 people, is seven times higher than that of the country with the fewest break-ins, Norway.

The burglary rate in Canada is slightly higher than that of the United States (at 746 per 100,000 people), but significantly less than the burglary rate in Australia, at 2,275 per 100,000 people.

Consider the following safety measures:

• Exterior Doors
  Doors should be made of steel or solid-core wood construction. Hollow-core wood doors are more easily broken than heavy, solid-core doors.
  Doors should be free of signs of rot, cracks and warping.
  Doors should be protected by quality deadbolt locks. Chain locks are not adequate substitutes for deadbolt locks, although chain locks may be used as additional protection.
  If a mail slot is present, it should be equipped with a cage or box. Mail slots that are not equipped with cages or boxes have been used by burglars to enter homes. If no box or cage is present, burglars can insert a contraption made of wire and cord into the mail slot and use it to open the lock from the inside.
• If a door is equipped with glass panes, they should be installed far from the lock. Otherwise, burglars can smash the glass and reach through the door to unlock the door.
• Spare keys should not be hidden in obvious locations. Burglars are very good at finding keys you believe are cleverly hidden. The best place for a spare key is in the house of a trusted neighbor. If keys must be hidden near the door, don’t place them in obvious locations, such as under a doormat, rock or planter.
• Install a peephole in doors so you can see who is on the doorstep before you open the door.
• Consider installing bump-resistant locks. “Bumping” is a technique developed recently that can open almost any standard lock with less effort than is required by lock-picking. This technique uses "bump keys," which are normal keys with slight modifications. Lock companies such as Schlage Primus and Medeco manufacture a number of locks that offer some bump-resistance.
  

Pet Doors:

• Pet doors can be used by burglars to enter homes. Some burglars have reached through pet doors in order to unlock the door. Don’t install a pet door, but if one is necessary, it should be as small as possible and installed far from the lock.
• Another reason to forgo pet doors is that a crafty burglar may convince or coerce a small child to crawl through a pet door and unlock the door. Also, some burglars are children.
  Electronic pet doors are available that open only when the pet, equipped with a signaling device in their collar, approaches the door. These doors are designed to keep stray animals out of the home, and may provide protection against burglars, as well.
  

Sliding Glass Doors:

• They should be equipped with locks on their tops and bottoms.
• They should not be able to be lifted from their frames.
• A cut-off broom handle, or a similar device, can be laid into the door track to prevent it from being opened.
  

Illumination:

• Lights should be installed on the exterior of all four sides of the house. Burglars prefer darkness so they cannot be seen by neighbors or passersby.
• When you are not home, a few lights should be left on.
• It is helpful to install exterior lights that are activated by motion sensors. Burglars that are suddenly illuminated may flee.
  

Windows:

• All windows should be composed of strong glass, such as laminated glass, and be in good operating order.
• Consider installing bars, grilles, grates or heavy-duty wire screening. Be aware that barred windows must be equipped with a quick-release mechanism so occupants can quickly escape during a fire.
• Windows should not be hidden by landscaping or structures. If landscaping or structures cannot be moved, lighting can be installed around the windows.
  

Landscape and Yard:

• Shrubs and trees should not obscure the view of entrances. Shielded entrances can provide cover for burglars while they attempt to enter the residence.
• Fences are helpful burglar deterrents, although they should not be difficult to see through.
  

While the House is Vacant:

• A loud radio can be used to make burglars think someone is home.
• Timers can be used to activate radios and lights to make the home appear occupied.
• A car should always be parked in the driveway. A neighbor’s car can be parked there so that it appears as if someone is home.
• The lawn should be cut regularly. Uncut grass is a clue that no one is home.
  

Other Tips:

• Dogs are excellent burglar deterrents. If you don't own a dog, place "Beware of Dog" signs around the yard for nearly the same effect.
• If no security system is installed, you can post security alarm stickers around the yard anyway.
  

In summary, there are plenty of things you can do to reduce the chance that your home will be burglarized. .

Attached Garage Fire Hazards

Attached Garage Fire Containment

Asbestos

What is Asbestos?

Asbestos is a mineral fiber that can be positively identified only with a special type of microscope. There are several types of asbestos fibers. In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance.

How Can Asbestos Affect My Health?

From studies of people who were exposed to asbestos in factories and shipyards, we know that breathing high levels of asbestos fibers can lead to an increased risk of lung cancer in the forms of mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, and asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

The risk of lung cancer and mesothelioma increase with the number of fibers inhaled. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is also greater if you smoke. People who get asbestosis have usually been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time. The symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.
Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos, as we all are in our daily lives, do not develop these health problems. However, if disturbed, asbestos material may release asbestos fibers, which can be inhaled into the lungs. The fibers can remain there for a long time, increasing the risk of disease. Asbestos material that would crumble easily if handled, or that has been sawed, scraped, or sanded into a powder, is more likely to create a health hazard.
Where Can I Find Asbestos and When Can it Be a Problem?

Most products made today do not contain asbestos. Those few products made which still contain asbestos that could be inhaled are required to be labeled as such. However, until the 1970s, many types of building products and insulation materials used in homes contained asbestos.

Common products that might have contained asbestos in the past, and conditions which may release fibers, include:

• steam pipes, boilers and furnace ducts insulated with an asbestos blanket or asbestos paper tape. These materials may release asbestos fibers if damaged, repaired, or removed improperly;
• resilient floor tiles (vinyl asbestos, asphalt and rubber), the backing on vinyl sheet flooring, and adhesives used for installing floor tile. Sanding tiles can release fibers, and so may scraping or sanding the backing of sheet flooring during removal;
• cement sheet, millboard and paper used as insulation around furnaces and wood-burning stoves. Repairing or removing appliances may release asbestos fibers, and so may cutting, tearing, sanding, drilling, or sawing insulation;
• door gaskets in furnaces, wood stoves and coal stoves. Worn seals can release asbestos fibers during use;
• soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on walls and ceilings. Loose, crumbly or water-damaged material may release fibers, and so will sanding, drilling or scraping the material;
• patching and joint compounds for walls and ceilings, and textured paints. Sanding, scraping, or drilling these surfaces may release asbestos fibers;
• asbestos cement roofing, shingles and siding. These products are not likely to release asbestos fibers unless sawed, dilled or cut;
• artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces, and other older household products, such as fireproof gloves, stove-top pads, ironing board covers and certain hairdryers; and
• automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets.
  

Where Asbestos Hazards May Be Found in the Home

• Some roofing and siding shingles are made of asbestos cement.
  Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
  Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
• Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
• Older products, such as stove-top pads, may have some asbestos compounds.
• Walls and floors around wood-burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard or cement sheets.
• Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
• Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
• Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.
  

What Should Be Done About Asbestos in the Home?

If you think asbestos may be in your home, don't panic. Usually, the best thing to do is to leave asbestos material that is in good condition alone. Generally, material in good condition will not release asbestos fibers. There is no danger unless the asbestos is disturbed and fibers are released and then inhaled into the lungs. Check material regularly if you suspect it may contain asbestos. Don't touch it, but look for signs of wear or damage, such as tears, abrasions or water damage. Damaged material may release asbestos fibers. This is particularly true if you often disturb it by hitting, rubbing or handling it, or if it is exposed to extreme vibration or air flow. Sometimes, the best way to deal with slightly damaged material is to limit access to the area and not touch or disturb it. Discard damaged or worn asbestos gloves, stove-top pads and ironing board covers. Check with local health, environmental or other appropriate agencies to find out proper handling and disposal procedures. If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you are going to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal by a professional is needed. Before you have your house remodeled, find out whether asbestos materials are present.

How to Identify Materials that Contain Asbestos

You can't tell whether a material contains asbestos simply by looking at it, unless it is labeled. If in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos, or have it sampled and analyzed by a qualified professional. A professional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows what to look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers are released. In fact, if done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving the material alone. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. If you nevertheless choose to take the samples yourself, take care not to release asbestos fibers into the air or onto yourself. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed (by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that is damaged or will be disturbed should be sampled. Anyone who samples asbestos-containing materials should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before sampling and, at a minimum, should observe the following procedures:

• Make sure no one else is in the room when sampling is done.
• Wear disposable gloves or wash hands after sampling.
• Shut down any heating or cooling systems to minimize the spread of any released fibers.
• Do not disturb the material any more than is needed to take a small sample.
• Place a plastic sheet on the floor below the area to be sampled.
• Wet the material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent before taking the sample. The water/detergent mist will reduce the release of asbestos fibers.
  Carefully cut a piece from the entire depth of the material using a small knife, corer or other sharp object.
• Place the small piece into a clean container (a 35-mm film canister, small glass or plastic vial, or high-quality resealable plastic bag).
• Tightly seal the container after the sample is in it.
• Carefully dispose of the plastic sheet. Use a damp paper towel to clean up any material on the outside of the container or around the area sampled. Dispose of asbestos materials according to state and local procedures.
• Label the container with an identification number and clearly state when and where the sample was taken.
• Patch the sampled area with the smallest possible piece of duct tape to prevent fiber release.
  

Send the sample to an asbestos analysis laboratory accredited by the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST). Your state or local health department may also be able to help.
How to Manage an Asbestos Problem

If the asbestos material is in good shape and will not be disturbed, do nothing! If it is a problem, there are two types of corrections: repair and removal. Repair usually involves either sealing or covering asbestos material. Sealing (encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that either binds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so that fibers are not released. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repaired this way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handle asbestos safely. Covering (enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material that contains asbestos to prevent the release of fibers. Exposed insulated piping may be covered with a protective wrap or jacket. With any type of repair, the asbestos remains in place. Repair is usually cheaper than removal, but it may make removal of asbestos later (if found to be necessary) more difficult and costly. Repairs can either be major or minor. Major repairs must be done only by a professional trained in methods for safely handling asbestos. Minor repairs should also be done by professionals, since there is always a risk of exposure to fibers when asbestos is disturbed.

Repairs

Doing minor repairs yourself is not recommended, since improper handling of asbestos materials can create a hazard where none existed. If you nevertheless choose to do minor repairs, you should have as much information as possible on the handling of asbestos before doing anything. Contact your state or local health department or regional EPA office for information about asbestos training programs in your area. Your local school district may also have information about asbestos professionals and training programs for school buildings. Even if you have completed a training program, do not try anything more than minor repairs. Before undertaking minor repairs, carefully examine the area around the damage to make sure it is stable. As a general rule, any damaged area which is bigger than the size of your hand is not considered a minor repair.

Before undertaking minor repairs, be sure to follow all the precautions described previously for sampling asbestos material. Always wet the asbestos material using a fine mist of water containing a few drops of detergent. Commercial products designed to fill holes and seal damaged areas are available. Small areas of material, such as pipe insulation, can be covered by wrapping a special fabric, such as re-wettable glass cloth, around it. These products are available from stores (listed in the telephone directory under "Safety Equipment and Clothing") which specialize in asbestos materials and safety items.

Removal is usually the most expensive method and, unless required by state or local regulations, should be the last option considered in most situations. This is because removal poses the greatest risk of fiber release. However, removal may be required when remodeling or making major changes to your home that will disturb asbestos material. Also, removal may be called for if asbestos material is damaged extensively and cannot be otherwise repaired. Removal is complex and must be done only by a contractor with special training. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family.

Asbestos Professionals: Who Are They and What Can They Do?

Asbestos professionals are trained in handling asbestos material. The type of professional will depend on the type of product and what needs to be done to correct the problem. You may hire a general asbestos contractor or, in some cases, a professional trained to handle specific products containing asbestos.

Asbestos professionals can conduct home inspections, take samples of suspected material, assess its condition, and advise on the corrections that are needed, as well as who is qualified to make these corrections. Once again, material in good condition need not be sampled unless it is likely to be disturbed. Professional correction or abatement contractors repair and remove asbestos materials.

Some firms offer combinations of testing, assessment and correction. A professional hired to assess the need for corrective action should not be connected with an asbestos-correction firm. It is better to use two different firms so that there is no conflict of interest. Services vary from one area to another around the country.

The federal government offers training courses for asbestos professionals around the country. Some state and local governments also offer or require training or certification courses. Ask asbestos professionals to document their completion of federal or state-approved training. Each person performing work in your home should provide proof of training and licensing in asbestos work, such as completion of EPA-approved training. State and local health departments or EPA regional offices may have listings of licensed professionals in your area.

If you have a problem that requires the services of asbestos professionals, check their credentials carefully. Hire professionals who are trained, experienced, reputable and accredited -- especially if accreditation is required by state or local laws. Before hiring a professional, ask for references from previous clients. Find out if they were satisfied. Ask whether the professional has handled similar situations. Get cost estimates from several professionals, as the charges for these services can vary.

Though private homes are usually not covered by the asbestos regulations that apply to schools and public buildings, professionals should still use procedures described in federal or state-approved training. Homeowners should be alert to the chance of misleading claims by asbestos consultants and contractors. There have been reports of firms incorrectly claiming that asbestos materials in homes must be replaced. In other cases, firms have encouraged unnecessary removal or performed it improperly. Unnecessary removal is a waste of money. Improper removal may actually increase the health risks to you and your family. To guard against this, know what services are available and what procedures and precautions are needed to do the job properly.

In addition to general asbestos contractors, you may select a roofing, flooring or plumbing contractor trained to handle asbestos when it is necessary to remove and replace roofing, flooring, siding or asbestos-cement pipe that is part of a water system. Normally, roofing and flooring contractors are exempt from state and local licensing requirements because they do not perform any other asbestos-correction work.

Asbestos-containing automobile brake pads and linings, clutch facings and gaskets should be repaired and replaced only by a professional using special protective equipment. Many of these products are now available without asbestos.

Make sure an inspecting firm makes frequent site visits if it is hired to assure that a contractor follows proper procedures and requirements. The inspector may recommend and perform checks after the correction to assure that the area has been properly cleaned.

If you hire a corrective-action contractor:
Check with your local air pollution control board, the local agency responsible for worker safety, and the Better Business Bureau. Ask if the firm has had any safety violations. Find out if there are legal actions filed against it.

Insist that the contractor use the proper equipment to do the job. The workers must wear approved respirators, gloves and other protective clothing.

Before work begins, get a written contract specifying the work plan, cleanup, and the applicable federal, state and local regulations which the contractor must follow (such as notification requirements and asbestos disposal procedures). Contact your state and local health departments, EPA regional office, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration's regional office to find out what the regulations are. Be sure the contractor follows local asbestos removal and disposal laws. At the end of the job, get written assurance from the contractor that all procedures have been followed.

Assure that the contractor avoids spreading or tracking asbestos dust into other areas of your home. They should seal off the work area from the rest of the house using plastic sheeting and duct tape, and also turn off the heating and air conditioning system. For some repairs, such as pipe insulation removal, plastic bags may be adequate. They must be sealed with tape and properly disposed of when the job is complete.

Make sure the work site is clearly marked as a hazardous area. Do not allow household members or pets into the area until work is completed.
Insist that the contractor apply a wetting agent to the asbestos material with a hand sprayer that creates a fine mist before removal. Wet fibers do not float in the air as easily as dry fibers and will be easier to clean up.

Make sure the contractor does not break removed material into smaller pieces. This could release asbestos fibers into the air. Pipe insulation was usually installed in pre-formed blocks and should be removed in complete pieces.

Upon completion, assure that the contractor cleans the area well with wet mops, wet rags, sponges and/or HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) vacuum cleaners. A regular vacuum cleaner must never be used. Wetting helps reduce the chance of spreading asbestos fibers in the air. All asbestos materials and disposable equipment and clothing used in the job must be placed in sealed, leakproof, and labeled plastic bags. The work site should be visually free of dust and debris. Air monitoring (to make sure there is no increase of asbestos fibers in the air) may be necessary to assure that the contractor's job is done properly. This should be done by someone not connected with the contractor.

Caution!
Do not dust, sweep or vacuum debris that may contain asbestos. These actions will disturb tiny asbestos fibers and may release them into the air. Remove dust by wet-mopping or with a special HEPA vacuum cleaner used by trained asbestos contractors.